I already fixed this by using a wood screw in the free middle hole, in the center of the hinge.

(not the cleanest method but the fastest / cheapest)

New Yankee Workshop has video and plans for a workbench, along with Norm's commentary about what to use, where, and why (IIRC, it was 20 years ago I built mine).

If you build one, there might be a mistake in the measurements for cutting the notches in the feet. Or maybe it was mine.

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Built a workbench with 2X6 and 2X4's 20 years ago and I lagged the supports into the framing (angled the legs into the wall supports) and used screws for the rest. I can put engine blocks on it and have.

My dad did joinery, carriage bolts, and wood glue.

The legs were 8x8 cedar posts from the deck, the top was 2x4s laminated on the wide end to make an almost 4" thick top

Thing is sturdier than a fuckin solid slab of concrete and almost certainly will never fail

It's definitely way overkill tho

You'll prob be fine with deck screws

Yeah I bought it last year lol

I'm pretty sure I was drilling into wood behind my drywall; I checked with a studfinder. My house doesn't have any brick surfaces.

Yeah, it was my drill bit that broke. I was trying to predrill it before putting the screws in properly

I inherited 80 stall mats from a closed preschool. Shop floor, garage floor, under the above ground pool, workbench tops, playhouse floors for the neighbour kids and I roofed a treehouse in giant “shingles” of the stuff. Those things are so useful.

Not too sure, but it broke off inside the wall and I can't get it out unless I dig

Just to caveat, it is a hazard if switches everywhere in a building don't have neutrals. The reason for the neutral requirements is any switch using the ground for a neutral (ie an occ sensor) will put up to 1/2mA on the ground. Harmless if it's one, but if you have 10 on a circuit, all of a sudden you have 5mA on the ground. Point being, it isn't purely a design consideration, there is a hypothetical safety concern. But yeah, it's incredibly unlikely to be one here.

What you're describing is fine as long as there aren't box fill issues, and pretty standard.

Are you an apprentice? No offense, but I'd refrain from giving advice until you get further along. Assuming you're in the US anyways.

>I also believe that your box has a rating on it, and you can't put more current in it than it's rated for, and that rating should be around 20 amps.

Boxes don't have current ratings. There's no current running through boxes. They do have fill limitations however, based on number of devices, connectors, and conductors.

>If you are going to be pulling a ton of current then you should preferably avoid splices if you don't have to use them.

13 amps isn't a ton of current, and sure, it's better overall if you avoid splices because it's one less potential point of failure. But if you're concerned OP's splices can't handle 13A, they shouldn't be doing any electrical work whatsoever. Any good splice should have better ampacity than the conductor itself.

Shouldn’t really matter. If you engineer the bench right, none of the weight will be transferred to the screws.

Yes, that is option 1 above. I think it will just fail again.

This was the old me. I feel so called out rn.

Amazon "cabinet hinge repair plate" is the best option. They're thin metal plates that go well outside of the damaged area. Less than $20.

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I would get a separate bed frame and insert it

Depends! A few days ago I watched 25 minutes of how to make a traditional Japanese boot (I have plans to make boots!). Same day I skipped around in a tutorial video on how to use a specific tool because it was too long at 4 minutes.

For a "fixing stuff" channel, I would like things like "this is before, this is after", so I know I'm watching the right thing. Challenge yourself on how to do things extremely fast, if you want to show how to fix a zipper (that is a thing?), show the start of steps normal speed, then sped up/cut away, then end of step. No music for me, it can drown out instructions. And timestamps!

I built a fairly utilitarian work bench last year on 3 inch casters with one bottom shelf.

I used 3 inch wood screws, 2 on each face of a joint. Thing is a tank with 4x4 legs and 2x4s everywhere else.

Plenty to hold a table saw, mitre saw and anything else I regularly put there.

Only place I used lags was to secure the casters to the bottom.

More show, less tell

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There’s blueprints on the web for really solid 2x4 workbenches, I’ve built several of them over the years and modified them for my needs, height, vice, power strips, etc.

Built my light work tables of 2x2s and 1/4 inch plywood, assembled with predrilled 1-1/4" drywall screws. No impact or prying work done on these.

My heavy work benches are assembled from commercial steel shelving with 2x8s tops fastened with 5/16" carriage bolts, washer & nut. Vises and grinders mounted on these.