And some contractor could be sitting on old stock they want to use up. It makes sense to test well into the 90s.

Maybe put some weather strip in first then caulk over? I'd probably look into plumbers putty as another option that can take caulk over it.

Check the track alignment, keep an eye on the rollers and pins and see if they start pushing in at a certain point. If so, maybe loosen the bolts and adjust track to prevent the tightness.

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I agree that using the mats would be the cheapest/easiest option. That said if you want a more permanent solution you could get a poured epoxy floor installed. It can be used over asphalt as long as it has a good base, ie does not have issues with settling/shifting, and it provides a durable long-term flooring solution. Of course, it is expensive and I would highly recommend you pay a company to do it rather than DIY.

Yep. I did this exact project a couple years ago. Huge PITA. Would not recommend.

But if you’re going to attempt it, just keep drilling and you’ll eventually get through…

OP should still test it. When I was working doing gut jobs on old houses we found out a lot of popcorn ceilings from the mid to late 90s still contained asbestos. Just because the EPA mandated it doesn't mean people stopped using/buying old stock and using it anyways because it was cheaper/easier. Not worth the risk of future lung cancer IMO, especially when testing is relatively cheap/easy.

As long as its waterproofed behind there this is correct. Makes it tougher to clean tho.

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This shouldn't be filled. A gap at the bottom of the wall prevents water from climbing up behind the wall by capillary action.

If it is structural you probably shouldn't use drywall screws, especially in an area that might get wet. They may be the cheapest but they are also very brittle and prone to corrosion. That means that they are prone to snapping if there is a lateral force applied to them, and they will rust through after a couple of years of being exposed to the elements. For non-structural, interior, applications I have had fine luck with them though.

That said I usually prefer to use coated construction screws for everything. A youtube channel called project farm, highly recommended btw, tested all the screw varieties and found that the cheaper construction screws actually outperformed the more expensive specialty screws in almost every test. They aren't that much more expensive than drywall screws either.

Link to the video in question if you are interested.

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Screws could be worked loose in the legs if there are even tiny imperfections in the bench. With a nut and bolt you have force pushing from both sides

Get rid of the popcorn ceiling. The ceiling paint you have will do the job. Don’t go with oil based paints because it’s a pain for anyone else that will paint the house. People are moving away from oil because of the fumes and chemicals. Not as environmentally friendly or some shit like that.

If you want to go overkill you can also use Simpson brackets.

Galvanized has to do with rust protection. Structural screws is what you want

Consider using a thin 1/2 sheet of plywood for the top over what would be your top. The reasoning is as time goes on the plywood gets drilled into or cut and you can replace it easier. It can be attached with wood screws for easy removal. Hope that makes sense.

Yeah, now that I'm thinking, I remember they are LOL. Their bit holders are supposed to be good, though, so you could try them.

No. No opportunity for it to freeze. Interior wall runs and it would have thawed and or burst by now with outside temps back above freezing.

It is a Kohler single handle. Nothing changes regardless of replacing. My only guess is something clogged in the hot feeder pipe or in the copper/brass valve body.

Lag all day!

I totally agree. Anything you build shouldnt rely on the strength of the hardware that much anyway.

Yeah I'm installing two of the white balusters into that open space on the tread. There's already holes in the tread and railing for the baluster to sit. I'll glue the bottom of them in because they are doweled, but the top part is skinny and there is a lot of play where the railing hole is, so it needs to be nailed in.

I can post a better pic if you need. The ones I pulled out that needed to be replaced were nailed in, and looked like 18ga nails but no idea if that's actually the best practice. This house has lots of short cuts done to it I'm finding. I need these to be really secure because I have a child and last thing I want is here to grab or shake these and they somehow came loose.

Buy a metal bed frame to hold the mattress. Put it inside your “wood” frame, which would now just be decorative. If you want, you can attach this decorative frame to the metal frame. This would get all of the support off of the MDF. Add your slats or box spring, then mattress.

There’s specific screws for certain jobs? I just use the general use screws.