Got it, thank you much appreciated your insight

they don't come loose. this is not an issue at all.

As a contractor, I'm sorry to say that there is little you can do to fix this properly without disturbing the tub and tile. You can try to carefully pull off the bottom row of tile and you have a chance, but if one breaks, it's really hard to replace it. Demolition is your only real option to fix it properly.

Wow, big gap, I wonder why it was done like that. I suggest the backer rod then fill the shower full of water with the drain covered to weigh it down. Then use 100% neutral curing silicone. If it's just white GE makes one that is guaranteed to not mold. I have used it and it's very good. I believe it's call Supreme. Just make sure you us a Neutral curing silicone. You can get it color matched through Mapei, Laticrete etc.

Most big box stores will carry it. Do not use caulk or Siliconized caulk. On all change of planes you must use 100% silicone. Caulk is just gonna crack. Use a smoothing tool to put the silicone in and a spray bottle with water and a couple of drops of Dawn. It will give you professional results. Once put on give it a long time to cure as that is one huge gap. Then drain the water and you should be good to go.

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Yea, unfortunately that may be the reality of it. Was hoping there might be some kind of neat fiberglass insert or something that would have a lip that extends far enough off from the tub that it solves my problem, but I think that's highly unlikely.

That's not true. The gap allows a pressure break so the water can just spill right back into the pan.

74"x25"x1.5" butcher block countertop I picked up at homedepot and stained and sealed.

I would argue that old, nasty caulk under there is more difficult to clean. And mold behind the surround or water damaged drywall is much more difficult to deal with.

>preferably without removing the tub/damaging the tiles?

If you figure out how to do this, please let me know. I don't think it's possible.

Not if your wall is properly waterproofed. Red guard on the wall with a seal to the floor membrane, then tile or surround with a gap at the bottom. Standard stuff.

A gap at the bottom won't stop water from working its way up since capillary action will "pull" the water up. And the gaps will get super gross unless it's constantly cleaned.

Screws become loose and can't be tightened. Bolts can always be tightened.

lol

While yes electrical safety is important, they already figured out how to swap the light without causing any problems, sticking a voltage probe to the same wires shouldn’t be difficult for them.

Wasn't trying to correct you, was just elaborating for anyone else who comes across this thread.

4x4s and an inch of oak ply holy shit that must weigh 300 lbs and yes i bet it could hold a tank

It also allows your shower to leak water into the wall

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Thats funny, I just stumbled upon Blacktail Studio yesterday while looking up slab videos. I'm using an acacia wood slab. I'm really just concerned about it sagging in the middle if I use legs, but I'm not sure it will since I don't have a ton of weight on it.

What were the dimensions of the desk you put these on?

I did this when my door would stop and reverse last week. Found a broken wire that a mouse had apparently chewed through. Repaired the wire and works great now.

This link isnt working :(

You can use a thing called backer rod make just for prefilling large gaps prior to caulking they come in different thicknesses and are shoved into gap prior to caulking, gives caulking something to hold onto and if this is a wet area 100% silicone needs to be used. When applying silicone put blue painters tape at the edges of where you want silicone to stop,install silicone then Cann lick finger and wipe one side to other to make sure it's in good. Let set an hour and peel blue tape off should be nice neat line of caulk.Wait at least 12 hours then use shower without fear of water damage.

Then you also need to be testing for lead. Asbestos can nail you after a long time. Lead can hit you much quicker.