Recent comments in /f/DIY
MoreCoffee729 t1_j29h01w wrote
Reply to comment by carcadoodledo in Building a work bench: wood screws or lag bolts? by CaptInsane
Well, these are the good ones. I assume we are all talking about real wood here, too.
nashant t1_j29gui7 wrote
Are you sure the tray hasn't dropped? Looks to me like there was sealer there but it's degraded and split as the tray dropped.
2001sleeper t1_j29g1dh wrote
Reply to comment by owmyball in Advice on replacing old/rotting subfloor under bathtub? by owmyball
If you can’t find the source, it all has to come out.
a2_d2 t1_j29fzxk wrote
Reply to comment by huongdaoroma in Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load?? by huongdaoroma
I always pre drill into stud if it’s any type of load bearing like this is. Just start from a small bit and increase size until youre approaching but still smaller diameter than the target screw. And you can use a regular (non power) screwdriver for the last few turns if needed. Good luck!
roobinsteen t1_j29ewnm wrote
Reply to comment by OriginalSuggestion87 in 120v Extension Cord with USB outlets by HardSn0wCrash
>An outlet was not designed to be supplied by a stranded wire
This is just factually incorrect. Outlets are 100% UL listed for use with both stranded and solid wire, with the only exception being the push/backstab terminals, which must be solid wire. This isn't a matter of opinion. Have a look at this product spec doc from LEVITON:
https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/L-300_B_StraightBladeDevices_2015_Q2j.pdf
all of their receptacles are listed for use with stranded wire in both side and back wiring applications (to be clear, back wiring is using the clamps under the terminals, not back stabbing).
u193 t1_j29dodh wrote
A heavy duty screw that Simpson Strong-Tie makes that I've been impressed with is their SDWS timber screw line (e.g. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Strong-Drive-174-SDWS-TIMBER-Screw-Exterior-Grade-8212-0-220-in-x-3-in-T40-50-Qty/1002703078) - they are marketed as an alternative to bolts and they allow for some pretty intense pulling power (it's hard to tell from the picture how big the head and shank are). I originally found the SDWS line when looking for screws that were officially rated as a framing screw since deck screws are not.
If you find that you need more rigidity, you could add diagonal bracing along the back and sides, though this will likely detract from the aesthetic and may be overkill for a work bench.
[deleted] t1_j29d9qk wrote
Reply to comment by NeuroticTruth in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
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LilacYak t1_j29d6eq wrote
Reply to comment by KruiserIV in Building a work bench: wood screws or lag bolts? by CaptInsane
They never said how many deck screws…
rocksblantonssplz t1_j29ceu2 wrote
Reply to comment by NeuroticTruth in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
Definitely no sagging, I could stand on it with those fixed legs and I am over 200lbs.
rocksblantonssplz t1_j29c7mt wrote
Reply to comment by NeuroticTruth in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
I have dual 19" monitors on a mount with laptop arm and other junk (kvm and dock, misc clutter) on my desk and it elevates just fine for me. Have had it over a year now.
carcadoodledo t1_j29bxd4 wrote
Reply to comment by MoreCoffee729 in Building a work bench: wood screws or lag bolts? by CaptInsane
Oh man, I hate the Ikea or other cheap versions of those, mainly due to the particle board
NeuroticTruth OP t1_j29bfu9 wrote
Reply to comment by rocksblantonssplz in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
Exactly what I got as well. Sounds like just legs on the end will work then. No sagging in the middle with no support there?
NeuroticTruth OP t1_j29bb2i wrote
Reply to comment by rocksblantonssplz in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
Ahh ok yeah I think I have that one saved on Amazon. I wasn't sure the quality of it.
owmyball OP t1_j29ay1q wrote
Reply to comment by 2001sleeper in Advice on replacing old/rotting subfloor under bathtub? by owmyball
I believe it's from people exiting the bath, not the tub leaking. I will verify that though if I end up attempting to keep the tub in place
SyCoREAPER OP t1_j299pmz wrote
Reply to comment by Fmlyhmalm in Moving existing wires out of junction box by SyCoREAPER
I have to keep the original. It's definitely inline with other outlets since it causes my living room lights to dim when I turn on the PC
2001sleeper t1_j298m5w wrote
Where is the water coming from?
owmyball OP t1_j298fvd wrote
Reply to comment by rearwindows in Advice on replacing old/rotting subfloor under bathtub? by owmyball
Makes sense, thanks again! Also, as a contractor if you for some reason are in the Philadelphia/SE PA area and would be interested in quoting out replacement please shoot me a DM!
rocksblantonssplz t1_j298crj wrote
Reply to comment by NeuroticTruth in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
Sorry about that! I tested that before posting bit must have jacked it up, here is the product description (share button seems to be missing). "VIVO Electric Dual Motor Standing Desk Frame for 43 to 79 inch Table Tops, Frame Only, Ergonomic Standing Height Adjustable Base with Push Button Memory Controller, Black, DESK-V122EB"
flyize t1_j2983s9 wrote
Reply to New painter questions about old paint on walls, unpainted popcorn ceilings and primer! by thatoneguyovertheres
Wait, is it actual popcorn or mud? I see a lot of people call things popcorn (ie the Styrofoam stuff) when its actually mud.
My house was built in the 90s and used mud for a popcorn-like effect. If that's the case, just skim coat it and move on. If you try to remove it, you'll end up damaging a bunch of the drywall and have to skim coat it anyway.
rearwindows t1_j297goi wrote
Reply to comment by owmyball in Advice on replacing old/rotting subfloor under bathtub? by owmyball
Depends on the flooring used. A floating floor would be best. If it is not spongy feeling, it'll probably last a long time. The mold will get worse over time. Do not use a sealant on the wood. It'll trap the water. If you don't fix the cause of the water, it will begin to smell musty.
[deleted] t1_j296wnm wrote
Reply to How should I go about finishing this gap between flooring and bottom of banister? by mac250
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owmyball OP t1_j296oy5 wrote
Reply to comment by rearwindows in Advice on replacing old/rotting subfloor under bathtub? by owmyball
A follow up question - how bad would you say the wood is? In definite need of replacement? Or...could be salvaged for a few years until a full bathroom replacement is done?
hadriantheteshlor t1_j296ct8 wrote
Reply to comment by [deleted] in Floor leveler over asphalt garage floor by AdAltruistic3928
Have you checked recently? At least where I am, the interlocking gym mats are significantly cheaper.
hazpat t1_j2969u9 wrote
Reply to comment by Montecristo905 in Building a work bench: wood screws or lag bolts? by CaptInsane
You think a wooden work bench is going to stay solid? Lol The wood flexes and the joints get loose. Bolts can be tightened indefinately, screws eventually strip the wood.
[deleted] t1_j29j0tm wrote
Reply to What is the best way to connect two 10' 4x4's to make one 20' 4x4? by HawrdRawk
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