That's what I'm thinking. There's no load at the joint

Have you accounted for springs and cups?

Can you put weather insulation stripping on the lid portion?

If you just need to connect them and the joint doesn't need to take any load, you can get joint plates and nail them together, no?

I would put a concrete block under the ends, but also another one on each side fairly close to the joint so that the joint itself supports as little weight as possible.

I would also make sure the 4x4's are as dry as possible (in the sun for a few days) and get a couple tubes of construction adhesive and a box of 4" screws. Sandwich each side of the joint with long 2x4's, using a liberal amount of glue, and then a screw every 6" in an offset zigzag (1" from the top, then 6" further, 1" from the bottom, etc). Let it dry fully before attempting to put any stress on it.

Hey! I had a similar problem when remodeling this original 1961 main bathroom in my house. The subfloor had water damage even worse than yours and it had been laid before the interior walls, so removing it would have meant demolish half the main floor and I wasn't ready to do that....So based on my very limited experience, you need to first make sure nothing's leaking and that the damage is actually and only from excessive moisture in the carpet. Then , what I did was dremel the whole perimeter of the piece to be replaced. Took a bit of patience and few blades, but it wasn't difficult. I then added a few pieces of wood where needed to properly screw and support a new piece of plywood in.

Wasn't trying to insult you, when you said you weren't a journeyman I just thought you might be an apprentice.

> Can that circuit handle the current as it is? It's close, but it falls under 80% with nothing else drawing current under the written load requirements.

Never said they shouldn't pull a dedicated circuit, they absolutely should.

>It seems like you have a lot to learn about how a normal person can screw up electrical shit, especially with joining wires. Solid conductors require a lot of surface area for the splice to have less resistance than the conductor. So if they are in the US they probably shouldn't be using twist connectors unless they have seen some burnt and melted so they can see how not to use them. A single run will prevent the possibility of messing up a join. Safety always.

I've seen plenty of failed splices. And in my opinion, if you can't aplice properly, you shouldn't be doing electrical work. But you're taking the harm reduction approach, and that's fine too. It just reads as odd advice on my end.

>10 milliamps is enough to make muscles uncontrollable. 1 amp can easily start a fire. 13 amps is actually a lot of current. You are probably used to dealing with 3 phase panels so it's not a big deal. When Harry the homeowner starts getting the idea about putting 20 amps in a wall, it's best for them to have it in their head that it's a sizable amount, because it is. Safety always.

My point was that 13A is boilerplate, basic electrical work, and if they can't handle that then this is outside of their capabilities.

>At the very beginning I stated that I wasn't a journeyman, which if you were worth your salt, you would have put that bit together. So before you start attacking my experience with people who mess up projects and my intelligence, maybe you should have first checked to see if electrical boxes have current ratings... Because they do. Don't be pedantic to bring me down, just to feel smart, or appear more helpful. You should be worried about them. I'm not the one you should be working on. Keep your eyes on the danger. Safety always.

Wasn't trying to insult your intelligence. Apparently boxes have current ratings in the UK, I don't know if that's where you are. But in the US, boxes absolutely do not have current ratings. Here's a link to a cutsheet with common residential boxes. Ampacity isn't mentioned once, because box volume is how you keep a box from overheating, not branch circuit ampacity.

The bench is where you set the wood to get the worms out

Yeah thanks. I was thinking of using a piece of 3/4in plywood for the top

I've considered this as well. I suppose it would be just as strong?

Google “scarfed lap joint”.

Nothing is going to be as good as a real 20 footer. A real lumber yard, not a Home Depot/Lowes, should have 20 ft 4x4s.

If I had no choice I would use the longest 2x4s I could find to overlap two sides of the 4x4s. Screw and glue.

You can clean it out and fill it flush with sanded grout.

After the grout is dry go over it with clear silicone.

Chose a grout that is much lighter than the rest of the grout as the silicone will darken the grout you applied in the crack.

It’s not a perfect solution but it does work.

Why not use two 2 x 4 Screwed together?

Good call! We actually haven't used it in the years we've been here, so this is water damage from the previous owner. However I hadn't thought to put water in and plug the drain-great idea to be certain if the tub is leaking or not

I hadn't thought of that, thanks! After all the helpful replies Ill definitely spend a day or so trying to identify/confirm the leak, then act accordingly. Fingers crossed it really could just be the doors and I can squeeze a few more years of life out of the tub then do a nice full remodel.

I’m usually surprised when there’s a proper box holding the fan, some of the old stuff you run into… 18 years of surprises so far.

It shouldn’t if you use decent wood screws, max length, or you got too much going on on the top of the bed. Ha Ha Ha

By that diagram, box 2 is the end of the line since he has not shown any other wire exiting box 2.

According to his post, all he did was add a second switch to control the light / fan. Now both switches are 3 way switches.

No. I'm basically retired. So you avoided not insulting me. I'm under the firm impression that this person is going to do it with or without good advice. Since we don't know the exact box, because they are especially green and they are obviously confusing a junction box with an outlet box, what I suggested is the safest way just as you confirmed. So... Since they are probably pretty set on doing it themselves, they should not be terrified because that makes mistakes, but they shouldn't be overconfident because they won't see mistakes. Can that circuit handle the current as it is? It's close, but it falls under 80% with nothing else drawing current under the written load requirements. Should they call an electrician? Absofukinlutely, but I'll bet cash they won't. Anything I can do to keep someone from getting bit, or worse, is what I am aiming for. The safest way for them to accomplish their goal is to pull a new line. Safety always.

It seems like you have a lot to learn about how a normal person can screw up electrical shit, especially with joining wires. Solid conductors require a lot of married length to get the conductive surface area for the splice to have less resistance (or ampacity? Wtf) than the conductor. So if they are in the US they probably shouldn't be using twist connectors unless they have seen some burnt and melted so they can see how not to use them. A single run will prevent the possibility of messing up a join. Safety always.

10 milliamps is enough to make muscles uncontrollable. 1 amp can easily start a fire. 13 amps is actually a lot of current. You are probably used to dealing with 3 phase panels so it's not a big deal. When Harry the homeowner starts getting the idea about putting 20 amps in a wall, it's best for them to have it in their head that it's a sizable amount, because it is. Safety always.

At the very beginning I stated that I wasn't a journeyman, which if you were worth your salt, you would have put that bit together. So before you start attacking my experience with people who mess up projects and my intelligence, maybe you should have first checked to see if electrical boxes have current ratings... Because they do. Don't be pedantic to bring me down, just to feel smart, or appear more helpful. You should be worried about them. I'm not the one you should be working on. Keep your eyes on the danger. Safety always.

Actually help them if you want to one-up me. Go over. Pull the line. Be done

You could stop using it for a few days, let it dry some, plug the drain, and then fill the shower pan to see if the water is leaking from the pan.

You know, it looks nice and dry in the area under and around the tub. I would look closer at the shower door to see if that is where the water is coming. If so, then maybe all that needs to be done is re-caulking.

Eww, wood worms

I used cheap deck screws on mine. It’s 10 years old and I’ve moved it to 4 houses, still sturdy as a rock. Don’t overthink it, Deck screws are cheap and they work great. The bigger thing is make sure you use plenty of 2x4s so it’s built sturdy.

It's definitely not common in the us. Asphalt driveways, maybe, but not garage floors.