AFAIK there’s not a way to do what you’re describing only with cable. I like your idea but it would require tight tolerance to function without issue.

Not exactly a DIY, but depending on the size of dog, a retractable cable could be a good alternative.

First, give a good tug at those posts. If the holes are stripped out, there might be rot in those holes, making the post weak.

If it's still strong, then go with what ThisIsJustForPornog suggested.

You're probably right, lol

You would need some sort of captured track. Rather than a loop running around a wire, the “running” part would be a carrier traveling through a track so that you could support it without interference and make the bend/turns you want.

Traveler tracks are the basic idea, but much more substantial than needed and overkill for a dog run, but the idea remains the same.

Unless there’s some kind of gated, spring loaded toggling bracket I’ve never seen.. I suppose you could fabricate your own fairly easily with some trial and error.

And domed nuts, to make it safe for the kids.

A stripped lag bolt is a pilot hole for a larger lag bolt!

Kidding sort of… It would work but a carriage bolt would be better.

Have you looked at modern construction or deck screws lately?

Many have two thread pitches (to help pull layers together and resist unscrewing). Many also have other ridges and wavy shapes to also resist unscrewing

And steel quality has really improved in the last few decades, cheap steel is quite a bit stronger now

Project Farm on YouTube tested various types of screws, and you do get what you pay for to a good degree

Like anything is going to be properly done and still contain a gap like this.

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I don’t think what you want to do is possible.

Backer rod is the answer.

Yeah skipped that part. For sure, washers are critical putting a bolt on wood.

And washers on both ends.

I would take some wooden bbq skewers and wood glue and put a few of them in the holes. This will effectively make the hole smaller.

Alternative is to drill the hole out enough so it can tightly accommodate a wooden dowal. Once that is glued in place, you can drill the proper size hole for your lagbolt.

Drill it through and put a long carriage bolt with a nut on the other end in its place?

True, but you have to learn all of it. Drills are nice if you have a lot of the same thing to screw down. And anything that comes with a product I buy almost always goes in the trash so I forgot about that aspect LOL

Tools are a great bang for the buck. Nothing compares at that price. Bits are absolute shit.

I would also stress to a new diy person that an impact driver is only as good as your bits and hardware. They can tear right thru crappy hardware that often comes included with products. Either stripping or snapping in half. Also there is usually no torque setting so an inexperienced person may go way too deep.

I'm making a copy of this and putting it in my wallet. Even though now being 70, and needing this diagram probably 20 times in my working past, it will feel good just to know now how to do a proper three way.(switch, i know the other way)

I built a spray booth for airbrushing out of a cheap bathroom fan and a half sheet of plywood. It vents though a 1x6 that cut to fit in a window.

100% Agreed. Screws are fine and won’t suddenly become loose.

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Silicone is pretty strong and a larger gap actually allows it to absord more movement. With the backer rod it will sit just nicely.

Grout is water permeable and will actually allow water to leak behind causing damage.

Silicone all the way.

I believe it would be just as strong, maybe stronger since the grain is different on each 2 x 4. I wouldn't recommend it for outdoors but if you were to sandwich a piece of 3/4 plywood between the 2 x 4 it will be super strong.

As others have said:

1.) Remove old caulking. razor blade and peel should do the trick.

2.) Clean the area with a blue non scratch scotch bright pad and some shower cleaner to remove any remaining caulk. (Soap and water is probably best careful of cleaner with alcohol as it will get trapped and reduce the bond of the caulk. Be sure to let the area dry before caulking no matter what you use.)

3.) Apply backer rod; also called rope caulk, or filler rope, in gap, be sure to use appropriate size backer rod for wet areas, typically silicon. Snug but not packed in. You want it to be receded a consistent distance. (For deep areas you can stuff a smaller piece of rod farther back then stick the main single piece in front of that.)

4.) Apply painters tape above and below the gap ~1/4" from area you'll be caulking. I'd suggest using 1" tape because you'll likely be using quite a bit of caulking, especially if this is the first time for you, to cover that area and when you smooth it out you wanna be sure the tape is wide enough to catch excess.

5.) Apply silicone bathroom caulking, I like 'Alex Flex" but if it's cold where you are be sure to verify the caulk will set within the temperature, especially If there is cold outside are coming out via the crack. They make more expensive caulk for colder settings.

6.) smooth out with silicone caulk applicator. You can use your finger but with large gaps you'll have better luck with an applicator.

7.) Remove painter's tape prior to drying. sometimes you can run over the caulk again with the applicator to smooth out the transition from where tape was removed.

8.) Let dry for 24 hours prior to use, lightly touch to make sure the caulk is firm and you're good to go. (12 hours maybe enough dry time but with such a large gap and winter upon us, more time is recommended.)

Hope that helps, good luck.

Thanks that's just the kind of tutorial I need