Don't step there?

It's a fixed window, no opening and shutting

So:

Scrape/clean out all the old silicone / mold

Clear area with 90% isopropyl to kill mold/moisture. Let that dry/breath for 24h

As other have said, buy some bathroom/tile backing rod and jam it in there this will give an anchor point for the next step, the gap here looks about the widest end of a tile spacer so someone likely put a bunch at the bottom for some reason, and leveled the tiles from there, maybe an uneven tub or floor idk.

Once dry, fill your bathtub with water to weigh it down

Fill the remaining _\ gap with Microban Silicone. Microban or similar generic bathroom specific silicone not regular silicone.

This will prevent mold buildup, regular silicone will be black within 3y

Let silicone dry 72H yes it is a pain in the ass to not use the shower for 72 Hours. You can get away with 48 but if possible give it a full 3 days to cure. Plastic line your shower and run a fan if you must.

Buy more silicone than you think, it won't go very far and depending on how well you do it you might need to do a little touch up.

For a nice seam there is a tool to round it or a bit of canola oil on the finger and smooth the silicone out manually leaving a good amount as it will shrink and pull inwards

Good luck.

No. Open the window then close it on the board.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/568790627930538008/

I don't think it's possible. but, I do like a challenge! Remove the bath panel and the bath legs, see if the sealant around the bath holds the bath up. If so multitool around the edges of the rotten floor. If you angle the blade of the multitool sideways you should be able to do it, it'll be tricky and annoying with the restricted space but possibly could be done. Then pva the edges of the floor that was rotting (they would still be wet and rotting and don't want that moisture passing into the new floor and it should just dry out if not too damaged already. Replace then floor with chipboard. You might have to do it in 2 halves if when you remove the legs the bath starts to drop, so maybe remove 1 leg do that bit of floor, then the next. Fuck knows, worth a try.

Please be aware 3d printers are extremely sensitive to temperature change. So please put this at the top of the enclosure or in a way that does not move air across the build plate or hotend.

Why not just go through the wall? Permanent installation while you use it and easy to patch if you don't want it anymore?

Yes I did but these don't have the wooden spacers, these just go into the railing itself which has a hole drilled out for it.

Did you remove the balusters yourself? The ones I have dealt with where there is a dowel at the bottom, the top is trapped by two pieces of wood set in a groove on the underside of the hand rail.

More than likely the old motion sensor was powered with black and white wire, and the red was a normally open switch that closes with the motion(turns on). The new sensor is just a normally open between the white and black wires. So you would take your input power black wire and attach that to the motion sensor black wire, and the output(path lights)black wires to the white wire. Then you would attach the input power white(neutral) to the path lights white wires. With this new motion sensor you are only switching the hot wires on/off with a motion switch no neutral(white wire) is needed to be attached to motion sensor for it to work.

I think this one has a damper on it as well as the hood. I will have to look at in person before I commit to buying.

https://vivosun.com/vivosun-4-inch-195-cfm-inline-duct-ventilation-fan-vent-blower-for-grow-tent-p58820960379605454-v58820960379605444?variantId=58820960379605444

This weekend as my plan to move air

Thanks for the tip! I am using an indoor grow tent for an enclosure I was planning to use a fan from the same company that makes the tent. It is listed as a 4-in fan

https://vivosun.com/vivosun-4-inch-195-cfm-inline-duct-ventilation-fan-vent-blower-for-grow-tent-p58820960379605454-v58820960379605444?variantId=58820960379605444

I have a window in the door but I didn't want to cut into the glass. I thought about trying to take the window out and putting something in its place but I thought there was a pretty good chance of me screwing it up and that this would be a simpler option in the end

https://vivosun.com/vivosun-4-inch-195-cfm-inline-duct-ventilation-fan-vent-blower-for-grow-tent-p58820960379605454-v58820960379605444?variantId=58820960379605444

Something like this

What you need is a fixed track with a wheeled running on the track and the leash connected to the runner. Think barn door. So depending on how long a track you want to run, it can get expensive.

It depends on the application; if it's a homeowner workshop deck screws will be sufficient, however if it is going to see heavy loads and abuse carriage bolts. Spring for a few ¢ each on nyloc nuts (Or red Loc-Tite) and large washers so that it stays tight.

Your calculator is wrong. Max you can bring into a single gang box with a device is 8awg, 40 amps. Max you can splice and continue through is 10Awg, with no device. Also, I said UK, not Europe.

Simpsom Strong-Tie will have some options. You can find Simpson stuff at Lowes/Home Depot and proper lumberyards.

BC4Z (ZMSX for outdoors)

It's described as a post cap but it will work fine with no load.

The traveler track is sort of the idea I had in mind for encasing the join. Perhaps a crimped wire loop would serve as how the dog chain was attached to the run, and it pulls inside the track as the dog goes past it. I'd only use that on the section of run where it needs to be supported at Point B, and where there's a directional change.

I've also thought of a gated, spring loaded toggling bracket, but it needs to be spring loaded BOTH ways, because the dog would go back and forth. I'd envision it as V-shaped, so as when the dog went past, it would flick down, and the V would ensnare the wire back into it. The base of the V, or where the hinge is, would be the part thats supported.

I actually did also think of running the wire around the back of the tree, sitting inside a C-shaped steel tubing. That tubing is fixed to the tree, allowing the dog to run around the back of the tree at Point B, but my dog's an idiot and wouldn't go the way i planned.

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Or at least cut the bolts flush with the nuts. And washers under the nuts, but not under the head of carriage bolts, which have a square shank to resist turning in the wood, so you can tighten the nuts.

They will just be skids under your 2X deck? Then whatever you do is fine. Scab with 2x4 both sides of you want. You probably don’t have to do anything. Toenail a couple 5” exterior screws if your feeling generous

You have two options: cut a hole in your LVP for the pipe/cap to sit in or cut and cap the pipe below the concrete. Screeding out concrete in a radius around that pipe will require a lot of work and skill. Most LVT installations require fairly flat floors; to float out that bump would mean grading out a large area around that pipe.

Or because I think it's interesting, and maybe someone else wants to know why the neutral requirement exists? I'm just elaborating on the intent behind the code, obviously it's pretty rare that hazard would ever exist. Just wanted to point out why it's there to clarify that it isn't a pointless rule.