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Asphalt is soft, and will become very soft in the heat. Let's say you plan to park an RV or store a boat on it for long periods of time in the summer, the wheels can literally sink into the surface of the asphalt. Concrete pads simply support huge loads without deforming.

I've never had much luck with squeaks. You win some, you lose some.

I'll offer this minor variation to your option.

With some patience, you could cut the tongue on those boards and remove them. You'd try to not damage the appearance side if possible. Of course, you need to remove the screws you just put in.

An oscillating (multifunction tool) with the right blade makes this possible. Buy an extra couple of blades since you might encounter the hardwood staples while doing this. If you can tell that you are hitting a nail, bypass it while your blade is good and come back later with your worn blades. (BTW, you can sometimes get a little more use from a blade by filing some notches where the teeth are damaged.) Return any blades you don't use.

Then, you will be looking at the subfloor with some missing flooring. You'd step and push to isolate the squeak. If it disappeared when the boards were removed, good. If not, you identify where the joists are, then get some 3" screws to hold the subfloor to the joists better. At that point, you hope to have no squeak whatsoever.

You'd use construction adhesive to put the boards back and reuse your screws. I'd put wood glue (like Titebond III) where the boards were sawed. A few finish nailing would be good too. Then touch up the cosmetic aspect.

That's my best idea.

I've done this before. The grout will crack because it's brittle and the shower pan and walls expand and contract at different rates depending on temp and humidity. You need something stretchy like silicone for any transition in surface, even inside corners of the same kind of surface.

Plumbers putty will dry up and crack away of used to fill that gap, won't provide a water tight surface, and would take a lot to fill that. Backer rod would be the appropriate backing for silicone, not caulk

Concrete gives you more options in terms of color and stamping and does better in high heat, but salt/cold can cause it to crack and chip. Asphalt is usually cheaper, but requires resealing every few years and doesn't handle high heat well, but is more resilient to the cold.

In terms of thickness, generally speaking, the thicker the better in terms of longevity. I think the need to add reinforcement depends on how much weight you're going to have going across it.

TIL what a lag bolt was and what that big bolt was called. Thanks, Chief!

Appreciate the insight, yes, definitely was leaning more towards concrete. I have two dogs so I feel it would be a bit more friendly on their paws during the summer time.

If you do asphalt, you'd be wise to get a thick, solid base, or the asphalt will crack and crumble before long. Contractors will try to give you the best price, and make the base THIN. Asphalt puts off more than a little heat in the summer - that may not bother you. I'd go with concrete, personally... Oh, asphalt will need maintenance. Cracks sealed, and a top coat every few (?) years.

I’ve tried baby powder. No luck

No I can’t unfortunately. Floor below has plaster ceilings

Exactly 👍🏼

I wanted about 30m - 50m worth of run distance. And by doing it point - point - point, like 2 sides of a triangle, it'll give him a nice overlapping area

Do you want something along the lines of a curtain track, but rated for how hard your dog will pull…?

You can also get poles that secure into the ground an have a lead off that... but I'm looking at 30m - 50m worth of run distance. We're on 6.5 acres, with a mesh perimeter, but no partitioned yard. He has virtually zero recall (although in training), so if he's 150m away, or heavily distracted by rabbits or trails, he's not coming back. Hence the long run.

Are you seriously advocating for untrained people to work one handed in a hot panel?

Please don't offer shit advice to people on DIY who don't know any better. Your advice flies in the face of all recognized safe work practices discussed in NFPA 70E.

Can you access the floor from underneath?

I had a similar problem, I was able to drill up from below into a few of the culprit boards.

I had to tap the hardwood floor (from below) and tighten with a #10 machine screw.

Is your position that stranded Romex or MC is the same product as stranded appliance or lamp cord as used in the OP's Instructable simply because they're both "stranded?" Is your position also that the UL listing covers an application that will subject the terminations to strain or the supply cable to regular flexing?

I'm willing to bet "homemade power strip" isn't a covered use case under the UL listing, either.

I'm in awe of the mental gymnastics involved in twisting this DIwhy into "100% UL listed" territory because the word "stranded" can apply to multiple products.

I rented s place a long time ago with a squeaky floor, my father told me to put talcum powder on the floor and rub it in.

It worked, though I had to repeat the process occasionally.

I’ve already done that. This is post drilling. It’s hardwood.

Is it actual hard wood or a lvp or laminate? If hardwood, you could drill a couple pilot holes into the squeaky area, put in screws, then plug with wood filler. Then of course you'd have to try to match the color.

It’s in a very inconvenient spot to not step in (right at the entrance).

That's a good point! The grow tent I have and these fans are meant to hang from the top of the tent.

Right on, great to hear from someone with very similar experience. I'm gonna spend a day testing the tub and making sure it doesn't leak, then likely doing the same. Otherwise it's a full renovation! Thanks!

It is hard wired, but from the electrical tape probably incorrectly. It is basically installed the same as any light fixture. I would add an electrical box and do it properly. There are plenty of videos to help.