>An outlet was not designed to be supplied by a stranded wire

That's what you said, and that's just a factually incorrect statement, which is what I was responding to. It is perfectly safe, fairly common, and UL approved to wire an outlet or switch with stranded wire using the appropriate terminals.

I agree with you that OP's little invention would obviously not be a UL listed device, but again, you said that under no circumstances can stranded wire feed an outlet, which is wrong. Now....despite OP having created something that wouldn't be UL acceptable...it's likely not unsafe as long as they did a good job making the mechanical connections. I myself have a "homemade" extension cord feeding a double duplex outlet box. Made it using a 12awg extension cord and a foursquare Handybox. Is that UL listed? No, but I have beat the ever loving shit out of it on jobsites for a long time and it's fine. Many tradespeople have similar homemade extension cord+boxes and beat the shit out them as well.

My overall point is this is almost certainly not an unsafe device to use, but if I were OP i wouldn't have posted it online to show off, because of the obvious and predictable way in which people would freak out about it.

What's the original build date of the house? That would tell us what kind of conductors could be back there. That taped splice is a big issue. All connections have to be made inside a junction box with approved connectors (wire nuts or wago type).

Shoe always looks better than quarter round imo.

Quarter round also takes up an annoying amount of space when you want to sit furniture flush against a wall.

Huge caulk

To be fair they constantly mention wood glue throughout those instructions. One without the other may not work half so well.

> I wonder why it was done like that.

To me it looks like the pan has settled.

Welp, that's a fire hazard. The connection should be made in a box.

Don’t use the polyseamseal! It gets very hard and brittle. Silicone is the best bet.

You'll get better adhesion to the shower floor and tile if, instead of using a finger, you use a profiling tool (ideally an angled one, not a concave curve that you'd get with the finger).

Concave silicone in areas that get a lot of water (like showers) mean the part that is doing most of the 'work' to keep water in the shower (where the top and bottom edges of the silicone meet their respective surfaces) is often very thin. A suitable straight angle avoids this issue.

One other good thing to do is wipe the area thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before applying the silicone (giving enough time for it to effervesce evaporate away). Silicone hates soap residues, grit, and especially grease (another reason not to use a finger!), and alcohol is great at getting rid of all three.

You’re better off with quarter round. Caulking that much linear footage sucks compared to chopping shoe molding with a miter saw

If it works you can just put a piece of trim above the sink to hide it

I smoke too much weed.

Didn't think of a dryer vent first, I thought of a exhaust vent for a grow tent. lol

Sorry, I'm about as handy as headless hammer.

PS This is some really interesting shit for a 3D printer setup. Kudos. Never heard of the need, but I'm sure that even PLA probably isn't healthy long term when used around the clock like I did during the thick of the pandemic, but I'm still alive. If I do start printing again I will consider a ventilation system like this, saving for later.

Good luck driving straight through the entire bolt. I'm looking to see if a long 1/2" or 3/4" core bit exists. core the whole thing out, can't find any, maybe a diamond bit with slots cut in.

I was selling my house and had a few spots where the planks were coming up from the slab. I drilled a few 1/16" inch holes in the areas and injected some gorilla glue (the kind that expands as it dries) inside with a plastic syringe. I put some weights on top while it dried then cleaned it up and stained it so you couldn't even see the holes unless you looked closely. Seemed very solid afterwards.

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Do backer rods work for baseboard gaps? Was planning on shoe molding throughout the house but between cutting and painting it would become quite a project.

Fair enough. Different people can weigh the tradeoffs differently.

The printer should have a cover on it for UV protection if nothing else while in use, right? So if anything you're drawing air around the printer but not really over the vat and plate

I just built a 12ft workbench for my 3d printers and other small project stuff out of 1/2" ply, 2x4 studs, and wood screws. It's super overkill for what I need but those parts were what was cheap. And I'm pretty sure it could hold my riding mower if I could get it up onto there. And that's without taking advantage of butting boards against gravity rather than letting the screws do all the lifting. Unless you need to work on a car on your bench, screws are more than enough.

I'm sure those are super nice and super secure. But man, I could buy so many screws that would be plenty strong enough for the cost of that one 8 pack.

One small note, sealant needs an hourglass sort of shape to expand and contract at the thinner middle part, with the wider top/bottom having more contact with the surfaces. So even using a backer rod when it’s not really “needed” for shallower joints between parallel surfaces can still help, if there’s room.

For sure do re-bar in concrete. But its the base under it that makes the difference on longevity. Done right concrete should last way better than asphalt

Thanks! I was thinking about removing the boards and trying that way. Unfortunately, these screw heads all snapped off, so I’d probably destroy the floorboards trying to remove them.

This person calks

Absolutely should NOT be grouted. Never grout a change of plane like this.