Washers on carriage bolts on the head end? Those have square ends on the inside, you'll have to go way up in washer size.

The main thing you are missing is a picture.

This is a great post, but Alex Flex is not the right stuff for this application. Alex Flex is a siliconized acrylic latex meant for painting projects. It’s not supposed to be in wet areas. The only thing I’m aware of that should be used here is 100% silicone.

Gloves. Wet your GLOVED finger. It’s hard to really get off skin.

Bathroom grade white silicone will be absolutely good you just need to apply it properly.

I’ve always heard to never caulk the baseboard (or shoe molding) to the floor. Something about too much movement between these surfaces causing caulking to crack/separate). (Except, I think, in bathrooms, for purposes of keeping water on the floor from getting underneath). The alternative to shoe molding would be to pull the baseboards and scribe them to the floor (basically trace the contour of the floor and shave off the bottom edge so it sits tight against the floor). Also agree shoe molding looks much better than quarter round.

Would the Dewalt DW1361/DW1354 Drill bit set + DWA2T40IR Impact set be compatible with Ryobi ONE+ Drill and Impact (P1817)?

What plug are you talking about? Can you link me?

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Drill bit broke off and stuck inside wall (no protrusion) - 3 of 4 screws are flush, 1 of 3 has hole blocked by broken drill bit.

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Isn’t that a bad idea? The grout can crack from tub movement

This guys caulks

no kidding needed I think this is the right way

You are way overthinking. This is a lag screw in wood. The screws can be removed pretty easily. Just put a screwdriver under the head and back it out. Then they just need to drill through and install carriage bolts.

If you have a window near where you have your 3d printer I would recommend just putting a hole in a plywood board and running a tube from your printer to the hole in the board and just mount the board to the window by opening the window and then closing it on the board, this way you dont have to modify any door (doors are more expensive and a pain to work with) if you want better airflow I recommend a 3 inch tube and an inline fan.

Assuming you just want it center… Get a metal receptacle and the light fixture your putting on…first turn off the power to your house, or designated part of the house…drill a hole center and big enough for your receptacle, strip your wires if needed, than run them through the receptacle. Secure the receptacle in place and if you can pull some slack enough to secure the wire safely out of place.. now get your fixture, wire accordingly, color wires can vary were you live, secure your fixture to receptacle put in light bulb, and your done… just how i would do so anyways, not sure if thats what you asked for lol

No it's not that bad. I've done two house renos with bad painted popcorn with patches and we had a guy that troweled on drywall mud (2 or 3 coats) and sanded and painted. Smooth as silk. It's messy but not nearly as messy as scraping and turns out 100%. Too often people take the hard way when there really is an easier solution.

Ok well they need something to grip maybe drill a 1/4" hole alongside the lag then hammer in a 1/4 dowel so the lag can grip and pull itself out.

That or try to find out where they would come out the backside, use a forstner or something to find the tips and push them out while spinning them.

Drill and tap the head for a 10-24 2" bolt. throw a tack weld on them cut the head off the bolt, close a drill chuck on it and spin it in reverse and pull.

Drilling things out like this is a PITA, you'll never get it right and by the time you are through the hole will be 3/4" from the drill wandering all over.

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Those are just glorified beefy screws. Might as well do it right and use regular or carriage bolts.

Use a star tip on top of all other comments.

If you're not ripping up board, you don't have that many options....

I might cut the base of the railing out, and install a new super facial bottom plate with a notch for the vinyl to sit under. Then wood fillers sand, and paint the bottom plate.

We miss some context about the environment the bench is going to be used in tho. Depending on humidity and room temperatures you might want to protect the wood better and also account that ultimately, it will degrade. If its an always 20 degrees room with no fluctuation in weather condition, I'd follow your advice. If its a somewhat badly isolated garage or something, that the wood goes from 40 to - 20 celcius throughout the year and goes from super dry to wet to dry again then super wet etc.. I'd advise to invest more unless you want to build a workbench every 5 years.

What's under the subfloor? If bathroom is above another room or crawlspace, be careful not to cut into the floor joists. You wouldn't want to create a weak spot right where all the weight of a full tub will eventually sit. Considering the relatively small size of the part you need to replace, I (very occasional DYIer) would definitely go with a dremel over a sawzall.