Yes, it will give a much better finished products. Use the self leveler and then sand before flooring installation.

Glue will have to be removed before you do anything

“If it’s stupid and it works then it’s not stupid… until it burns your house down or electrocutes someone”

Thanks. I did think about that for the screws, maybe 3/4 inch? Definitely going to grab choices and measure to be sure.

No it's real wood, home depot not IKEA.

Call your local county/city (depends on jurisdiction) inspection office and they can tell you if there is a code conflict with that.

Classic case disproving the idiom “if it works it’s not stupid”. It probably works but is still stupid.

I was thinking about the length of your screws. You will lose the thickness of the mounting plate on the legs.

As for how far from the edge, it sounds like there will be plenty of support from the other screws, so as long as you properly pre-drill the holes, you should be OK with 3/4 setback for the screws.

Are we talking about end grain butcher block or that thing where they glue blocks together for butcher block countertops? End grain might warrant a little more setback, but with as many screws as you are talking about, you might still be fine.

Try dry graphite spray. Just beware that can get everywhere. The graphite will work as a lubricant.

I would get a flooring scraper and get most of the glue off before doing anything, self leveling or other

The overall floor is pretty level, just the glue and some splats of drywall mud

Really depends on if there’s a significant drop or a very high spot that you want to set as the leveling point for the floor.

Probably not even wire nutted, I bet those were just hand twisted and taped lol

Made me smile

And for the love of god if this this is a tub and not just a shower pan, FILL THE TUB WITH WATER before you caulk. You need to weight the tub down before the caulk is applied so it’s applied when the tub is maximally displaced.

As someone who still has a scar from when I was 4 due to non-domed nuts.... That shit hurt. Been 30 years and I still remember it.

That's not how capillary action works. There is no "pressure" with capillary action.

In terms of my edge question or just in general? The plates will extend past that 1 inch mark, but not off the edge by the layout

I couldn't view the pics, imgur doesn't work on my device, but I've got some professional experience installing undercabinet and also regular, socket lights that's probably helpful here. I would NOT ever put a regular fixture above a sink, could be pretty dangerous if it gets really wet and is very probably a code violation (water+power=no bueno.) That said, it's dirt simple and cheap to do this RIGHT, needs just 3-4 tools and 2-3 parts, and afaik It's 100% legal to do it yourself anywhere in North America. Get a proper, waterproof/wet location junction box you can hide in the cabinet (we would put ours in the top, back corner of the lowest, closest cabinet and screw it into the WALL where the wires won't pinch or bend too hard coming out) and a prettier, waterproof, led light for in there. Lights can be had from Amazon for a song these days, just ensure it says waterproof or outdoors and has sold many units (thousands+.) Then watch at least 3 different YouTube videos detailing the steps to install it. I strongly advise you to break the project down a little when you go looking for vids and be as specific as possible in finding a good match for what you're doing and the products used, watch some waterproof junction box install vids, install yours, watch some (insert model or type of prettier light purchased here) install vids and do yours.

Bruh… I don’t think you understand how expensive doors are.

Whenever I had wood stripped out, like a door striker plate, etc., the solution was wood glue and toothpicks. Suspect the same concept on a larger scale would work.

Install a cat or dog door that locks open then you can just use a piece of cardboard in the opening with the duct tube taped to it. Close and lock the pet door when not using it.

Looks like a 110v fixture/feed. Test that w a meter. I’d put a plastic junction box on it and go from there. If ALL of the succeeding conduit can be seen/accessed you can use plastic/metal conduit w romex in it switch leg/feed respectively. Depending on local code. Some won’t allow romex and demand non-cable wire. If you end up needing to bury it code probably calls for metal/armored conduit.

Just repost it with the details and it won’t get removed.

Don’t forget to account for the thickness of the leg mounting plates.

That seems way more hassle than just going up to the next size up lag bolt