What length of #10 screws did you use?

That’s awesome!! I will definitely keep that in mind!!!

I do not have a spare of that, but I've seen other build use that.

Not easy, but easier

I second this.

How thick are the plates at the top of the legs? If they're at least 1/8" I would use 1" screws. I definitely wouldn't use any shorter than 3/4". Keep your holes 1" from the edge at minimum, and make sure you predrill. You can use a flag of painter's tape on the drill bit as a depth stop.

Easy way... Get a stick, or shim and glue it in the hole with CA glue. Do not fill up the whole with the shim. Screw in the lag bolts back in. The CA glue will strengthen the wood, the stick or shim will make the hole a little smaller so that the lag bolt will be tight. Look up CA glue with activator on Amazon. I use this glue quite often.

Video on CA glue. https://youtu.be/V23s-VQETBs

Home Despot butcher block tops are edge grain.

Fair point. The 100% silicone is the best option. Honestly never paid attention to the fact it was a mix. Alex Flex is commonly available, "100% waterproof" (when not submerged), and often cheaper though.

Since the area in question is above the tubs water line it would do the job fine but you are right, 100% silicone is better so long as you don't want/need to paint the area.

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• You are asking how to "get started" on a project.
• You are asking for a review of your overall plan for a project.
• You are asking what is the best method or approach to a project.
• You are asking whether or not you should do a project.
• You are asking for advice on what project you should make ("what can I make within my budget?")
• If you have a project in mind, please do some basic research on the matter, come up with your plan, then you can ask about a specific aspect of the project.

We want you to get the help you're looking for. If you have any of these questions, some places to get help are:

• The Getting Started thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.
• You may also try other subreddits - /r/homeimprovement, /r/woodworking, /r/electronics or /r/findareddit to help you find a subreddit applicable to your question.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

###Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.

Happy to help.

As one of the replies to my post said Alex Flex may not be the "best" option compared to a 100% silicon caulking alternative. That said Alex Flex is marketed as 100% water proof, so long as it is not submerged. In my experience it would work fine in this application since it's above the tubs water line but 100% silicone is better.

Edit: I'd probably go with something like GE's "supreme silicone kitchen and bath" for a 100% silicone option. It's readily available.

The long side against the wall. If you put it under the shelf you're making greater leverage pulling the shelf off the wall, if you stand anything on the edge of the shelf

It's the much easier solution than trying to clean that stuff off

The Ikea one is wood too. They meant which direction are the wood pieces in the butcher block - would the wood be growing up like a tree or to the side? It sounds like you have the latter.

You can lay vinyl on a concrete floor as long as it's relatively flat - it can slope up and down like basement floors tend to do (the vinyl can take slopes no problem) but OPs picture is rough and jagged; I wouldn't do that.

[removed]

Hard to say. Maybe if its the least used? Check the flapper hole, make sure nothings holding it open and push it down to ensure its sealing, check your cold inlet, make sure its all the way open, and CLR the tank. One of those 3 will fix ya.

Make custom gluelams. Plywood or something sandwiched between 2x4 s.. Glue and nail. Stuff is strong af

[removed]

The fiberboard siding on the outside of trailers has absolutely ZERO strength for attaching anything to. It's heavy paper covered in paint to keep it dry.

That said, it's incredibly easy to get through it to the structure beneath. Typically, the outside walls are framed in something that's roughly a 2x3 stud and they're very consistently spaced from each other. Find a seam in your siding and you've found a stud. Move over 2' from the seam to the next one (probably 2', they're not usually 16"). Then you can attach to it. Seal the shit out of the penetration to keep water on the correct side.

Even better, don't try to attach anything to it. Make some freestanding structure for your planter.

there's volumes of stuff in the code I disagree with, especially the new IECC with all the new EV stuff. It's so wrong sometimes, I don't know whether to laugh or cry. But at least the intent is good. And they aren't fucking it up so bad with anything more than their definitions.

Don’t disagree, but we don’t call a pickup truck a bus, just because it also happens to have 4 wheels 😉

exactly, it's terminology. And the only terminology that matters, from code perspective, is what is defined in the code. Again, I am not arguing you're technical view here. I'm just saying it kind of doesn't matter. The question is about code. What you feel is right or wrong based on engineering principles is irrelevant.

there is no code directly related to installation of an EVSE outside of specific states like California that has the Title 24 code. That's coming with the IECC 2024. Only relevant code would be related to the furnace or the electrical panel.

Terminology. A charger is something that converts AC correct to DC current so the (DC) battery can be charged under controlled conditions. The EVSE neither is or does anything of the above. But people still call them ‘chargers’. Better would be ‘charge connection’, charge station, connection station, etc. More about educating the public in baby steps. Also so the consumer doesn’t buy more than what is ‘needed’. Many EVSE have added intelligence (for timed charging, to measure kWh, etc), intelligence that’s also present in the vehicle.