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None of the comments that I've seen here reflect real world construction standards. Stud walls are made from 2x4s that are actually 3 and 5/8 in wide, a layer of 1/2-in drywall on each side results in a finished wall that is 4 and 5/8 thick. The header beam over the doorway should be at least a 2x6 which means they're solid wood from 1/2 in. up from the bottom edge that extends upward 5 and 5/8 in. Some conditions require a 2x6 wall stud with corresponding increases in size for the header. Usually the addition of drywall corner bead creates an out of plane condition whereby the corner bead extends a little bit past the flat face of the drywall. Doorways that have actual door jambs installed do not have corner bead, The trim around the door jamb lands flat on the wall. Because you have corner beads any trim you add will angle out away from the wall a little bit. If it were me I would find a piece of deck board which measures actual 1 in thick and screw that up to the header, making sure my deck board was a little bit wider than the opening which I presume to be 4 and 5/8 in.

That board that you are seeing is likely just a 1x6 that was placed over the rough framing which should be a 2x.

In this case my guess is that you have 2 1/4" of solid material all the way around that opening. Good luck.

Forth.

Totally unnecessary for a shed base. No need for 20 footers. Heavier, less weirdly, harder to transport. No thanks.

What would ignite it? The petroleum component evaporates pretty quickly

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Iryk-76bmH4

Chisel out an hourglass on two opposite sides glue with elmers wood glue, drill 1” hole in center of two pieces ,install 1” dowel peg in center, and put together. Then install hourglass-shaped pegs (with glue) on each of the two places where they adjoin. They will likely never come undone

Kids are a lot stronger than we give them credit for, I would probbaly leave a 100% margin for error and rate the fixture for 30-35lbs instead, just to be safe.

If space is no concern, there are floor based jumpers that have wheels and toys attached, which I found worked better for my kiddo as there were more things to keep him entertained, plus he could sorta move around which made him very happy.

Thanks. Will do, going to measure the screws to be sure, go 1" from the edge. Going to have to look up this painters tape technique, good idea

If you stand in the entryway and look up, it's clearly a single board of wood, so there's the 6. And if you step back and look at the face of the entryway, you can see the faint outline of the 1" where the drywall isn't completely flush with the edge of the board.

The house was built in the 50's and had some work done in the 70's, and I don't always understand why things were built the way they were. I hope I didn't misunderstand your question. But it's kind of irrelevant now, I'm taking some sound advice here and looking for framing members in the wall rather than fastening to that board.

Vinyl will telegraph whatever is below it. Even a small pebble.

Should have said solid not real, thanks

Some people are always looking for rules to follow.

How do you KNOW that the wood around the opening is a 1x6?

Thank you, I'm not very experienced and I was having a hard time imagining the structure behind the wall. But after googling header board :) I see what you're saying. I might try probing with my 1/16 drill bit first, if it's long enough. If I can find something solid to fasten to, I don't have to use door trim, I can use good 2x2 or maybe something like a french cleat. Thanks for looking out for my kiddo with your advice.

Yeah the whole "hang it from the door trim" design has me nervous but I haven't seen any reports of mishaps. I had been thinking wide L brackets or maybe the right beam bracket, but after some thoughtful comments here I'm going to avoid screwing up (no pun intended and yet, there it is).

Yeah... small target, thin screws, and not much wood supporting them even if I hit dead center of the 3/4" edge. Thanks for weighing in. I guess I need to poke through the drywall and find that 2x4...

Better than nothing I suppose

No, you're right. The jumper was designed for trim fastened to a door frame, not my 1x6 ideas. And I'm asking for help because I absolutely don't want to risk anything with kiddo. So, thank you.

My magnet says there are studs up there, but they are offset depending on which face (the one you see and the one in the far room). I was trying to avoid adding trim around the entire opening to span multiple studs, when I just need a couple inches in the middle to hook onto. But I don't think it's gonna work.

Thanks for confirming horizontal - screwing straight up is literally hanging by a thread.

If you dry it quick enough, it's fine. Don't use a lot of water, obviously. The towel will soak most of it up before it can really penetrate the wood.

Even that doesn’t look big enough tbh. Not to mention I wouldn’t trust myself not to set my house on fire through faulty wiring!

Quarter round

Same name.

This is a new home (2019) and on the 2nd floor. I don’t want to remove my ceiling to do this