Rgr that, thanks for the input! Will definitely make sure the plywood stays dry after a lot of testing for any leaks in the tub

This is good advice if you're only doing one room. But if you have a long hallway that's highly visible from the main living area you should center everything off of that and whatever happens after that is what it is. See my post and pic above. It's more important that the hall is centered than the size of your end row. I did 5 rooms and the hall and used no transitions anywhere.

any brand of bits will g fit any brand of drill/driver. The hexagonal bodies are standardized.

But when I referenced the two brand names I was referring to manual hand held drivers

For example, in the amazon page ( infra) there are any number of driver bits made by wiha, and you san see that there are manual handles plus they will fit any hex drive impact drill/driver doesn't matter if it's Dewalt, Riobi, or Milwaukee they are all the same.

https://www.amazon.com/wiha-driver-bits/s?k=wiha+driver+bits

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That's tough- see if you can get some powdered graphite..same as baby powder but works slightly better. I'm aware of it from my own research but have not tried it

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The installation itself is very easy. The hard work is getting the floor flat/level and planning the layout. If you just start with a full row then you may end with a tiny strip on the other side of the room. Figuring the layout for one room is usually pretty easy but it gets tricky if you want a continuous floor through multiple rooms. The goal is to always have more than half a tile at the edges.

Silicone will start drying before you finish applying, tape will pull it off more the longer you wait. I don’t use tape My choice 1 -That needs to be cleared out first. 2-You can use a silicone grout that matches the existing grout or Try Amp caulking very little sag. Just a simple reminder there’s a 1/4-1/2 “ lip extending upward on that tub you can’t see. Curious if that sub floor is sagging

I've DIY LVP and hardwood multiple times. LVP is very easy. The hardest part is measuring and scribing around oddly shaped obstacles. I highly recommend using an oscillating tool to cut complex shapes out of LVP. Don't frustrate yourself trying to use a razor and snapping when you have anything but a straight line to cut.

Yes.

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You're not missing anything. Ignore the salesfolk. You will be rewarded with thousands in savings.

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If the floor you're installing on is flat it's so incredibly easy. If using spray adhesive spray both surfaces and leave for a few minutes to go tacky...

Brava has synthetic tiles that look great (Not all shiny and cheap looking like some ive seen) and weigh about the same as asphalt shingles.

He's trying to upsell installation. Lvp is incredibly easy to install.

That depends on the strength of the fastener(s). Vertically, coarse thread screws. Horizontally, nails have the most sheer strength.

No other parts are accessible without opening the wall up.

If it’s for a cat you will probably be good either way

Properly installed, either horizontal or vertical should hold 15 lbs no problem, however horizontal would be stronger.

Don't screw into just the 1x6, if anything you need to drill through the jamb and screw directly into structure inside the wall.

This boils down to...what is easier to patch in a year - a hole in the drywall o a hole in the top jamb?

That opening definitely has some header above it. Either drill a lag bolt through the top jamb into the header or through the face of the wall into the header. Make sure the bolt is at least 1 inch deep into the header.

I've used silicone meant for pools and the back of a spoon to smooth the seam. This has held for several years.

Cedar is a very soft wood, lag screws will easily pull out, best way is to put a eye bolt with a large square washer at the top to support the weight from the swing.

Typically, you should put the screws no nearer to the edge than the thickness of the wood... so one inch in from the edge.

Because you can get the answer by calling your town/city code enforcement office.

Can you still beef up the structure or is it too late? I would look into a metal roof that closely matches your existing tiles