Agreed. Never grout edges or corners. They only end up cracking and causing more problems

Is there a shutoff for the water supply? What if you shut it? Either the tank will eventually drain (flapper leak), or the tank will remain full (problem like over-fill). Check the max water level is usually imprinted on the tank, or the styrofoam insulation.

After a flush the tank fills as per normal, shuts off and then won’t activate again unless flushed. It’s as if somehow the water is being circulated from inside the bowl through the rim jets continuously. It’s most assuredly not water from the tank moving down by gravity as it’s dyed blue and the water in the bowl and trickling down the side of the bowl is Crystal clear.

If it flushes and you don't change anything, does the fill valve actuate again? As in overnight, does the tank refill?

All holes appear to have water coming from them during a flush.

If I understand correctly, that swing just needs a lip to hang on, on each side.

If it was my problem, here's something I know would work.

I have two long drill bits (12"). One is 3/16", the other is 3/8". I'd drill from one side all the way through to the other side. I'd put holes about 1" up from the corner and another set about 3" up.

Then, I'd drill matching holes into some wood that we're adding to make the necessary lips. I'd attach the wood using threaded 1/4" rod with good sized washers to spread out the load.

I'd tighten those bolts until the wood was crushed by the washers (assuming pine, it will crush 1/8").

At that point, you'd have metal bolts to carry the shear force and there's no 15 baby that could rip that down.

Paint white.

When the day comes to remove the swing, you just have a few drywall holes to patch and paint.

1" from edge should be fine. As others have said, make sure you pre-drill to your fastener's "shaft" diameter. You might even want to go a hair over if you're getting too much resistance when you start screwing.

I used 1/4" lag bolts on mine and the top is on SOLID.

Ikea ones are still solid wood too. Also a solid phase.

Do you notice any difference between any of the holes during a flush? Like, some don't "work", maybe indicating some kind of blockage?

That's what I thought but I wasn't sure, thanks a lot!

I would not grout that. Caulk matched to existing grout would be my preference.

If you want a line a fixed distance from the floor, just use a thin board of appropriate thickness to slide a marking device along the trim

Don't hang your kid. You must learn to love them.😜

Clean all off all the old caulking, then reinstall with silicone or siliconized caulk?

Good thanks!

Don’t know the look you are trying to match, but sometimes it’s better to go with a completely different color or style rather than one that is close but not close enough.

Maybe not the right answer for you, but at least worth considering.

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If there is no leak and your water meter is not running then I'd just forget it. Maybe check on it occasionally, but it doesnt sound like a problem to me.

If there is no difference between the new and old cartridges then it seems like there is some kind of obstruction in the valve body. Since the problem is with hot water the obstruction is on the left side. I'd get a bright lite and look into the openings. I have probed with a very small Phillips screwdriver to find something. Another option would be a straightened paper clip with a 1/8" 90° bend at the end to make a hook. My last ditch would be to leave the valve disassembled and supply hot water at normal pressure. Might be a bit messy but better than replacing the whole thing. I really hope you have good luck and solve your problem.

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That glue is probably so old and brittle that it wouldn't.

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Good luck getting 20' out of two 10' pieces with a lap joint

Its too late the timber frame is in and sitting on the dwarf wall. There's no beam to tie it all in that's who I worry about the weight of the tiles

That opening undoubtedly has 2x framing inside predrill into that sink screws bolts whatever into it vertically or horizontally by min 2” you are done it with hold you up

Yep, kitchen is right below. 100% agree on Dremel vs sawzall for a precision cut