Please be careful when moving the new tub. When I replaced our tub and was moving the old tub outside, I made one end flex and was struck in the face with shards of porcelain with sharp ends. Could have lost an eye.

Definitely seen it done

Look at the tub options they'll have a lip around them that would accommodate this...

Your suggestion works, but it depends on if the cutout was flush with the framing because there wouldn't be room for the drywall overlap on to the existing drywall for at least part of the patch if it was because the wood would be in the way.

Do not use grout or caulk. Install a shoe mould to the floor.

Grout will crack. Caulk is going to look dirty and awful after a month.

Also flush the toilet so that the tank does not contain water while doing this experiment. If there is no leak now then it means the flapper is leaking water. Also in such kinds of leaks you will never hear the tank getting refilled because it is continuously getting refilled as it is leaking.

Are you saying it’s a 1x6 because the drywall is slightly feathered out around the opening? If so then check again as that might just be the corner bead. A 1x6 trim around an opening would typically not be flush to the drywall - it would tend to crack even with mud and tape.

Is the wall 6 1/2” thick from drywall to drywall? If so then that’s at 2x6 framed wall which would only be used in an interior for either plumbing or structural reasons. If it’s structural then the header above the opening will be solid lumber and you’re golden. Just screw the brackets into the header - that could also explain why the stud finder is finding offset studs since it would be picking up the nails not the studs.

Good luck with that. A strange problem to be sure.

Stop over thinking it. If water isn't leaking from the refill tube and the bowl water isnt turning blue; job done.

Put solar panels up there to cover the new roof?

Yeah, those buggers can be feisty. One thing to try is get a hold of it with channel locks, put a bit of pressure in the loosening direction, then give the handles of the channels a little tap with something; an actual hammer might be overkill, but anything to send a shock through the threads. Crescent wrench, screwdriver handle, lots of things can do the trick. We're basically breaking any dried schmoo in the threads.

Another piece to keep in mind is the part you're trying to turn is actually a bit flexible; if you squeeze too tight, you can pinch the outer threads against the inner threads, stopping it from turning. Adjusting the position of the pliers can make a big difference.

A comforting thing to know here is the faucet probably has several parts going through the sink; this means you can really put some sauce on to get it to break free without the faucet turning on you. Keep after it; it'll let go!

Edit words are hard

The hardibacker is about 1/4” and the tile also about 1/4”, so I’m assuming my alcove behind those is 59”, still too small. The installation vids I’ve seen call for notching the 2x4 framers about 1/16” tomake the lip of the rim flush, then replacing the hardi and tile.

But what if I notch in about 1/2” instead? Is there any reason that’s a terrible idea? Past the small structural compromise I can’t really think of one, but I may be missing something since I’m not a pro.

The rough opening is almost certainy framed in 2x4. If you wall is 4.5" thick, for example. The safest option is to screw a 2.5" or 3" eye screw through the trim and deep into the rough frame underneath. Hang from the screw yourself to test it, then attach the jolly jumper with a carabiner to the loop below the clamp. My parents used a hook, not an eye screw and occaaional i could jump the spring off the hook. My kids had the over the trim clamp version until we moved to a house with no trim. It is the best baby product ever. I hope your kid enjoys it.

I think I cleared them all, but I’ll take another look

Dude needs to cut back to sold drywall, otherwise the repair will be crazy obvious.

At one point yes, I’ll shut the water off again and see if it eventually stops

Actually, I meant gluin and screwing 3” wide lengths of drywall on top of the existing drywall (patch removed first) on all four sides so he could attach the patch to them. I’d also suggest he cut away the paper around the patch a couple inches for the new paper to lay flush.

Thank you

Thank you!!

Don't judge me but I used a butane lighter to heat and unscrew one. Yes it was probably paraphernalia but the tenant left it where I could see it and it worked. YMMV

Thanks for the advice all, I will look for some colour matched silicone!

60 inch bathtubs are measured framing to framing. So if your Alcove is 58" after backer board and tile you should have 60" to the framing in order to fit a standard tub in. Otherwise you can just buy a 58" bathtub. They can be difficult to find but are available. 54c bathtubs are pretty easy to find as well so that may be an option. It's easier to make an opening smaller than to make it larger.

I second this. The aluminum ones have come down in price enough to where it doesn’t make sense not to use one.

Arokroil or pb blaster. Did you try tongue and groove pliers? Use rag or something to protect chrome, but some damage might still happen.

What about creating a portal to access this spot in the future. I did this for a friend of mine who had rats above his ceiling. He didnt have an actual attic bc it was an apartment. But we made a latchable hatch so he could get the dead rats out but not to have an open hole so the rats jump into his bedroom. Long story long, you might need to get back in there one day

well you could....but you are probably asking for trouble down the line. There are usually two ways to do things, the right way and then the other way.