Just pinch a piece of tape to itself around the bit at the depth you want and stop drilling when the tape hits the surface.

That's funny - I have a plumbing issue downstairs.

3M Heavt Duty Dbl Sided Tape, works great.

This was happening with one of our toilets. After replacing everything with all new parts, I came across one YT where the guy described a "siphoning effect" when the refill tube is too long or is positioned too far down to overflow. Sure enough, mine was both too long and too far down the overflow. I shortened it up to where there was only a little droop and only about 1/2" of refill tube going down the overflow. Worked instantly, and that was 3 years ago.

I'm not completely sure of the physics involved, but the refill tube was drawing water from the tank... to the point where the fill valve would open up to replenish the vacated water (ghost flushing).

Caulking baseboards. https://youtu.be/n9GSeS8YpgA

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Oh, it’s gonna be tricky. Am sadly positive about that.

*antimicrobial

Mold is a fungus, not a bacteria.

100% agree!

White caulk or shoe string molding would look great!

I’m really NOT liking what I’m seeing here. I have extreme doubts that the water has not penetrated the surface and is now behind the wall. Eventually an entire wall of tile is going to end up coming loose. I would put the likelihood of this at 90%. It won’t happen tomorrow or the next day but eventually it will.

If this is your home I would get it taken care when funds allow. I would recommend not showering in there for a few days and even put a small box tan or whatever pointing at that joint just to get some airflow going to make sure it’s to reduce any moisture that has penetrated the surface. If it’s a rental, I’d recommend using the backer rod and a silicone caulk. It’s not ideal but at least it should stop it from getting exponentially worse.

I really hate saying this because I’m not bragging but just to give a background. I’ve owned a flooring company for 34 years specializing in all sorts of tile, remodels, etc. We have done everything from residential homes, schools, hospitals, to military bases, etc.

The castor should be pretty safe as the heat destroys the toxin in the raw seed.

Try a simple carbon and sediment filter . Think that will be pretty standard. So unless you're in a high farming community or cattle that may taint the ground water - should be good. You can take a sample unfiltered and have it tested for bacteria etc. If there is any, the community should address that as a whole.

Good luck in the shift . I'd still use a carbon and sediment filter on city water. :)

Use quarter round molding. It will bend to the contour of the floor and when standing, it will look perfect.

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If you can replace a door, drywall and siding is easier than that.

Is it condensation from the cold water nearby?

I hired a guy by the hour to do my drywall finishing and then I hung out and "helped" him. I learned that I had used my mud while it was too thick, I could add a little dish soap to the mud and it goes on smoother, and the neatest thing I saw was on the last round of mudding and it's just spots, add a little chalk line dust to make it a little more noticeable for final sanding.

I’m really glad you’re taking this advice; the floor will flex differently than the walls, as does tile from skirting, so it would just be crack city. A flexible caulk is 100% the way to go. Or a wood corner bead (looks like a long stick with a side profile like 1/4 of a circle); less cleaning, though some caulks do much better with resisting grime than others.

Get a flat-bladed screwdriver, rest the tip in one of the notches, and tap the handle gently with a hammer. Alternate occasionally between notches to reduce cumulative damage to he faucet stem. The shock should loosen the nut.

I am drywalling the entire downstairs right now and fixing cracks in the plaster all over the upstairs (2200sqft house). Please send an exorcist, at this rate I’ll be done in 2024.

They spliced the female end to the ceiling fan?

I've done many tub replacements and this will work fine. Just make sure you have a plan to insert the tub into that gap. Depending on the layout of the bathroom that can get tricky.

Did you also acount for the "mortar bed" and/or wire mesh that should be roughly 1/2" thick between the hardibacker and tile? Or is that not present?

Im not a framer but I've picked up things along the way. more often than not, as long you're not removing more than 30% of a 2x4 depth, it shouldnt compromise the structural integrity, unless there are 3 or more sandwhiched together. Those are probably directly carrying the load of whats above them.

Even with brand new houses ive seen things shaved down notched out. Especially in remodeling jobs.

I don't understand the down votes. External doors are 1.5k to 4K to replace. They have to be reframed.

YouTube “That kilted guy” for taping and finishing. The number of videos he has is little overwhelming, but one of the best resources for finishing joints I’ve used.