Around here they put the sumps inside so they don’t freeze.

Ooh ooh I know this one. Had the same thing in Quebec.

The blockage is in the main and it’s further than 15ft out. It took almost the entire 100 feet for the plumber to hit it when it happened.

Hope the water didn’t do too much damage!

I get them from electrical supply houses. If you get them the part number, they will often get you an exact match. As for availability, I've seen lead times of a week to a couple of months, so it depends on how soon you want that light working.

Watching as I have the same problem with the same type of hinges

looks like you'll have to take the whole unit down to access what ever light it uses. what happens when you apply down force to that outer ring bezel thing? hanging around elec ppl on construction jobs they call those 'buckets' that are recessed into the ceiling and they would just pull down to gain access.

Just over round the hole sightly by rotating the drill in a circle as you drill. Make sure to get the dust out too, use a vacuum cleaner nozzle.

Difficult to see from this pic and angle. If it was me: I would get my mask on, spray the area with my spray bottle of water till it’s getting drippy and then use wet wet’n’dry to flatten it off with a vacuum in my other hand very close to catch as much crap as possible. Then put a rendering compound over it and fair it off so everything is covered but doesn’t look too lumpy. Then I would leave and wait a day. Come back in with mask on, damp cloth and bucket of soapy water, wipe everything down from top to bottom, then mop the floor and let it all dry then vacuum everything. After that use my finger to find if there’s any residue, human finger can feel stuff at tiny micron levels. If it feels grainy I would vacuum again and then wipe down with acetone maybe? Obviously goes without saying but just in case; I would take anything with complicated surfaces/ a high human interaction object out before starting and if there’s anything that is going to be an issue to clean that can’t be removed I would cover it in a dust sheet and tape it down, then dispose of the dust sheet once done. I don’t recommend this cowboy approach to life, if you think it might be asbestos best to get it tested, but I am fairly old and my job means I am always exposed to all kinds of terrible particles and chemicals so I tend to be quite lessezfaire about stuff, I mask up with appropriate filters and get stuck in because While I DO enjoy life immensely I have no plans to get out of it alive anyway.

What kind of insulation? If it's fiberglass or an open cell foam, rip and replace. If it's rock wool or closed cell, you can dry in place.

For the sheetrock, you will need to remove some to assess the damage behind anywhere you see signs of water damage and to allow it to dry better. Anything that has lost its integrity should be replaced as well. If you can stab through with a fork, replace it.

Outside of that, it's more about what else to remove to make repairs/drying easier. One large hole is easier than 5 small holes.

Also, get yourself a good stud finder that finds pipes and wires. It's way cheaper than the repairs you are looking at.

What’s the remedy for a worn valve?

How much are they?

These are pretty comparable to how much tap ones are in Canada and look to be similar

https://www.thefastenerfactory.com.au/screws-fixings/masonry-concrete-fasteners/concrete-screw-bolts-masonry-screws/galvanised-screw-bolts

Having used both taocons and anchor sleeves I LOVE tapcons/concrete screws way more

You are correct

11.7/25.4 * 32 = 14.74 /32

=~15/32

I don't think it's an aerospace grade drywall anchor. I think a 0.008" tolerance will be acceptable.

I got the Philips hue 2 bulbs the ones that chnage colors. They had a deal with the white ones that came with the bridge and not the color ones. That was probably my mistake. I should have gotten the bridge. But didn't want the color changing ones.

Former master plumber here, now a plumbing inspector.

This.

Your clog is more serious than you think. A professional will have you cleared out in no time.

The ethanol evaporates pretty quickly. Shouldn't be a problem unless you point a kerosene heater at it after pouring it.

Sounds like your bathtub is the far end of the drain, then the toilet, then main out of the house. There is a clog after the toilet headed out of the house. Because there is nowhere to have forced the clog in the toilet out it backed up to the bathtub. When you flush and get clear water it’s because there’s nowhere for the flushed water to go in either direction.as everyone else is saying snake that shit.

Make sure you let us know how it got resolved!

wrong. 15/32" is 0.46875" while 11.7mm converts to 0.46062992125984253" according to one place i looked.

Do you screws have part of the shank with no threads? It's possible you haven't hit the studs and it's sliding up to the threads

Perfect, thanks for the advice mate. I actually picked that exact box up this afternoon after I warped 2/4 of the plugs that came in the kit.

12mm will be completely fine. Also if the wall plug is bent/warped after your first few attempts you might have to get some new ones. Can be a real pain to get deformed plugs into correct holes. Head in to the big green shed and get something like these. You can probably find some cheaper ones, that was just the first one that showed up on Google. Not bad to keep some of these around if you have a brick house.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-12-x-60mm-anchor-ramplug-15-pack_p2260095

Also make sure you're using masonry bits, and if your masonry bits are cheap/dull the hole you're drilling will likely be smaller than it should be. So either get a new sharp set, or you can just kind of rotate the drill bit around in the hole while moving in and out to hollow it out the extra mm.

Edit: also if you've got a cheap hammer drill and masonry bits. My advice is to start with a small hole 4-5mm and then use step up to the bigger bits. It will be much easier on the drill, bits and your arm.

Asbestos can absolutely kill you painfully after a single exposure and regularly does. Do not assume that you will probably be fine if you are not exposed for long. It can and will kill you. Asbestos kills more people in the UK every year than cars do. More than 5,000 people A YEAR die in the UK from breathing in asbestos dust at some point in the past. It's not like filling your pocket with sand, where a little bit isn't noticeable, it's more like putting a lit firework in your pocket. 1 lit firework is better than 10, but 1 will still absolutely fuck your day up.

Once or twice but wasn’t too keen to put much force into it

Yes. It still closes but rubs against the frame at the top

I just bought a house 3 weeks ago that has both sumps in the basement and an external sump that pumps into a nearby creek. I was told by the previous owners that ever since they installed the external sump the yard and basement have stayed dry.

Is the door getting caught on the frame when you open and close it?