Maybe not so relevant but I have to throw my breaker for at least 20 minutes to get back going. I hard wired it, mistake, should have done plug and receptacle. Mine is a control panel issue needing reset, pita

Yeah, deeper scores are better.

Can I store boiled linseed oil in hobby syringes?

I don't do full-on woodworking. I just repair and restore stuff and would like to restore/patch/upgrade a large amount of wooden and metal boxes, tools, etc.

This means I probably won't use large amounts of the stuff and generally when I have a liquid that I only need in small amounts, I transfer it to a hobby syringe to prevent drying out or contamination. I usually do it with inks, some glues, some solvents, etc.

I read that BLO and similar oils can combust in crumpled-up rags so I know not to burn my house down. I wouldn't beusing rags though. I'd be using it on Q-tips, with small brushes, etc.

I also read that these tubs of BLO are great when fresh but get worse over time due to exposure to air when you open them. A syringe would be a better way to store and use small amounts. My syringes go up to 100-150ml. They have luer lock threads and can be screwed shut. They are made of Polypropylene.

So can BLO be stored in syringes or am I missing something? Just wanna make sure before I screw things up.

YES BUT TURN OFF THE FRICKIN’ WATER BEFORE TAKING IT APART

You can put a shim behind the hinge to make small adjustments. I usually use zip ties cut into 3” pcs. Then use painters tape to hold them in place. If you put the shim near the door stop. It will pull the door away from latch side and towards the top of the door frame. If you shim towards the barrel side of hinge. It will push the door towards the latch side and the floor. It sounds like you need to shim the top hinge at the stop. Then shim the bottom near the barrel.

Do you understand how small 0.008" is? A human hair is 0.003".

You're literally splitting hairs just so you can walk around pretending you're clever.

So like maybe scratch in a crosshatch pattern on the aluminum, that way there would be a lot to grab onto.

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I empty the box of powder into the old economy sized pod container and keep a giant spoon in it for scooping.

I also made a tape handle to make the container easy to grab.

when someone asks for folks to correct them if they;re wrong, why do others feel the need to say something about the correction? piss off.

i didn't say it was or wasn't, i said if op was using a drywall anchor there something else was gonna happen. i don't know if they'll work, i use the correct things whenever i can. op also said tapcons were hard to come by down there. yeah, i read them all.

You'll need more than a light scuffing. Alternatively you can prime it with metal primer.

There are the three drilled and threaded mounting lugs, but I see two more lugs on the back with no hole. Willing to bet they have screws inside. Maybe they will be holding the guts in.

My plan was to clean the aluminum, scuff it up real good and then pour it in and let that section self level and them let it cure.

I’m not close to the platform…it is at a cottage a few hours away. I will try to describe it better. It is an aluminum platform that is V-shaped (if you looked at it from the side….but the V would be maybe 1/2 inch difference in depth from the low point to the high point and it would be about a 3ftx5ft area if looked at from above.

As long as there's enough texture to hold the epoxy to the aluminum you should be fine.

Additional information: I have two buckets of indoor/outdoor epoxy adhesive and I have 1 huge bucket of two polyurethane adhesive. Not sure if one would be better than the other for this project.

Thanks in advance folks!

Found the pain in the ass engineer every tradesman hates.

Seriously, 8 thousandths of an inch is entering the territory of CNC machining, not hanging a hose reel.

Sorry to interupt your hair splitting. Did you read op's post? Looks like a drywall anchor to me.

> a void on the bottom of an aluminum platform

Post a picture of this “void”.

You could also use a screwdriver (preferably a square or Roberson) to sit inside the anchor and tap the driver with the hammer. A little easier to knock it in if you're in a weird spot or lack hand eye coordination.

That's interesting so it knows if you came home let's say past 9 and will turn on. But if you come at 8pm it won't? Whats the name of the one you have.

There is only one: a new valve.

I had to call Roto Rooter and they ran something down my pipe with a cutting end on it.

did you read the other comment? must've missed the part where it said "pls correct me if I'm wrong"...

also, if op is using a drywall anchor in brick, something else is gonna happen regardless of the tolerances.