There's nothing leaking into the bowl. And If the flapper was leaking the tank would be draining, not overfilling.

Build a soffit. You can make it look intentional

Oh man. I don’t want to tell you to call an electrician but…

…that’s what I’d do, static.

Cheaper and easier overall to just get an ultrashort throw projector if you want an image larger than an 85" oled TV

You should still be able to buy a bridge separately and connect those bulbs to it.
After looking into it, it looks like you can also use the Hue Bluetooth app if you want to control just those lights, and upgrade to a bridge later:
https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/products/smart-light-accessories/hue-bridge-buying-guide

You can buy a bridge from here, or from Amazon if you want one slightly cheaper:
https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/hue-bridge/046677458478#overview

Try a heavy duty crowbar if there is still a head to grab

You're not out if lemonade, you can dip it out with a cup.

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If you shut off the stop to the sink you can unhook the supply line and attach here

However this is not the same size threading as a toilet valve so any included adapter will not work, a trip to the hardware store should get you sorted.

Bring the included adapter and this picture

LOL

Go ahead and cut the floor joist. There’s plenty of other joists holding it all together. It’ll be fine.

You would be better off buying a projector that would fit between the joists than the trouble of making what you have fit. And, if it fits but it’s slightly off center, know that any good projector can adjust for an off set mounting location.

Absolutely not, don’t ever touch structural wood

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I assume your house is older and the drain within the foundation is possibly cast iron?

Take a packet of kool-aid and dump it in the tank and see where the water leaks too.

Where it is best to attach the splitter?

Can you source a thinner profile projector?

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Please don’t do that. If you absolutely need the projector to go there, call a structural engineer. This will likely cost anywhere from $1k-6k. If you notch that joist, you will have a saggy floor; it’s just a matter of when it will happen.

The fill vlave is the only place it could be leaking in. It puts water in both the black tube and the tank via the greay tube.

But the leak point is the washer under the pin under the top black cap.

You can frame a floor opening, yes. However, your plan to brace the cut joist is not appropriate.

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/framing/field-guide-to-common-framing-errors_o

Basically, the joist that you want to cut will be mounted to the header joists, which will be mounted to the adjacent, uncut joists.

This is something you definitely want to permit and get inspected.

Get a face shield while you're there too, You might only have to do this once, but the cut-off wheels breaking/random sparks can really fuck your day up.

I would wonder if the adhesive, either that you mention, would get attacked by mold. Also, what will happen when the seasons change and you get a freeze-thaw cycle. Will it separate because they expand and contract at different rates.

That would be questions that people with more knowledge would have to answer.

Yep, you can set a defined boundary around your home and make all kinds of rules around it. So when you enter the boundary, the smart plug will automatically do whatever you have it set for. You can make rules based on time, weather and even what other plugs are doing. I have ones from Feit that I got at Costco. I think it was 3 for $20. They are also great for Christmas lights because you can set them on a schedule.

Mind if I ask a plumbing question?

Under my basement I have a bend that frequently gets plugged.

I have to flush a lot of water from inside and also from outside (I have a big pipe under my porch).

Is there anyway to prevent this?

I notice the blockage when I flush my toilet and the drain in my washingroom starts to bubble.