Already have an ultra short throw, that is what I am trying to accommodate.

I’ve seen dumb questions on here… this one though, tops the list. Bet OP still does it.

i see, that changes things. but no i would not cut out floor joists without consulting a structural engineer. you may just have to sacrifice the depth of the projector or look into a normal throw projector

If you lift up on the lever arm does the water stop? Might just be something at the top preventing the float from going all the way up.

It is an ultra short throw projector. Every little bit of movement makes a HUGE difference.

The projector is right in front of the screen, not above a couch.

That’s not why I’d call an electrician. I’d call one because if this exists where the OP found it, it DEFINITELY exists everywhere else, and electricians can usually find where the older wiring would have run, and have tools that can measure amperage loss on existing wire to find out the likely candidates for where knob and tube is still present.

Sure, but as I said, the projector is wider than floor joists are.

Eh, I can vent the projector no problem.

2-3k is less than my projector costs ;)

Yeah, this is probably best.

Though, there's nothing dangerous about the ground wire just hanging out. It's bonded to neutral at the panel, as it a should be. The circuit downstream of the Romex is only two wire (hot and neutral). You don't want to tie neutral and ground together outside the main panel; that would be an NEC violation.

However, a fully proper install would bond that bare copper ground to the metal junction box in the picture. You don't need anything complicated, just grab a spare piece and join with a wirenut to extend, and land it on a screw in the box.

There is a seal between the tank and the bowl, but I doubt it's that.

A smaller projector would be cheapest in the long run.

Exactly right, I am trying to accommodate another piece of furniture that is below the screen.

This will work great if you want the people upstairs to be able to watch what your projecting too.

I don't need to. The leak is not from the tank into the bowl, it's somewhere in the tank.

Exactly!!

Okay so the the water comes up the grey tube, through the float valve, and from there it goes into the black tube AND also somewhere else?

I feel like if it was an issue with the washer then pressing on the lever to force a tighter seal should have stopped the leak, but it didn't. I didn't see any obvious signs of wear, cracking, or nicks on the washer. I'll try replacing the washer and see if that helps. If it doesn't then could there be a leak in the grey pipe itself?

Technical answer is yes…. Should you, probably not.

Unless you are hiding an engineering degree that you haven’t disclosed, you should find a professional to look at it.

That said, you can remove that joist, as long as there is enough support on the neighboring joists to appropriately handle the load. This may include strengthening the neighboring joists, or moving them.

Yeah, I was trying to move it up by about 10" for a better viewing experience.

Speaking as an aerospace engineer, I'd strike out "could probably." It is definitely possible, but it sure won't be cheap.

Edit: far cheaper for OP to just buy a projector with the optics that will give them their desired screen geometry with the projector sanely mounted.

Yea i know right, all the ppl in this thread panicking. This is an easy and common problem that carpenters face every day while dealing with joists interfering with plumbing etc.

Call a professional, yes what you want can be done and not all that expensive. Would take me about 20 mins to do what you need. But, I am a professional.

Have you replaced the mechanism? It may have an oring that has deteriorated

It would go directly on the cold water shut off valve. It'll then have an identical connection at the top to reattach the faucet cold water line (looks like a 1/2" compression). Lastly, it'll have a connection on the side where you can attach the washlet hose. Until you select the washlet, you won't know what size/type that connection is. So you should get the washlet first, and then get a splitter that is 1/2" compression inlet, 1/2" compression outlet 1, and then whatever the washlet needs for outlet 2.

I have an ultra short throw projector, so every little bit of height helps.

I already know where it's leaking to, it's going into the overflow pipe in the tank.