If so, the issue may just be the low flow toilets these days. When the cast iron drains were installed, toilets were 3+ gallons per flush. So there was a lot more water per flush. Are your toilets low flow? Modern toilets are limited by law up to 1.6 gallons per flush.

Lights never had a ground. Knob and tube obviously never had a ground.

What are you even asking? You either run 2+ground back to panel or don't. It's pretty obvious. You will have ungrounded outlet in the mean time.

The center channel is moving (being replaced). The projector won't fit between the joists.

If that's your center channel speaker, which is centered to the screen. Just mount the projector in the space between the joists slightly recessed where the ceiling will be. I wouldn't touch that joist at all

Totally misread your comment. Apparently my impression of inflation in the concrete screw market is a bit hyperbolic. My bad

OP is in Australia, and unless Canadian tire is wildly more successful than I expected, may not be accessible

thanks for your reply! They are not grounded at the panel. This was spliced off existing k&t to feed an outlet for my gas stove. So if I move those connections into a metal junction box, can I place the single ground wire into the box, touching the sides of it, and it will then be grounded?

Trying to also accommodate a piece of furniture that my wife wants.

Obviously replacing the furniture is easier, but sometimes that is harder to get through to a spouse;)

This should work. But you will need to scuff the epoxy as well once it cures. Use water or a hepa vac for this process.

It is NOT grounded at the panel. It was spliced off of the k&t and run up to power my gas stove outlet. Why they didn't just run a new, properly grounded circuit is beyond me.

Yep, this would be the solution, typical for adding any penetration through a floor or roor that is too wide to fit between joists/rafters.

And you can't put it on the floor under the screen? That's typical for an UST

Structural engineer here: noooooooooooooooooooooooooo

You’re so off the money here it isn’t even funny. Look up building codes. This can easily be done and for very cheap. Maybe if they don’t have the experience or know how it’s not possible for them to do alone, but this is not a $40k job requiring metal I beams. It just requires the installation of a header joist where the cut will be made.

Use this link to see how it’s done. I’ve done this multiple times myself on projects.

Everyone is saying no, however this can be done if you do it right.

You’ll have to support that joist from below with a few 2x4’s before you do anything, having one on a bottle jack would also likely be a good idea.

What you need to do here is cut the offending joist to the desired location and add in a doubled up 2x6 (or 2x8 whatever matches the current joists) spanning the gap between both adjoining joists to act as a header.

In this case you’ll need to use joist hangers on the end of the cut joist and the ends of the new header beam. Probably easier to see a picture so it’ll look pretty similar to the photos in this link.

There is but it's not worth the labor vs grinding it down. U can bend them back and forth and eventually they will break and hopefully below surface but u can likely smash that little bit down. Just get a grinder and some safety goggles and let er rip

I think I would sister the first and third joist and head off the second. Not too big of a job depending on stuff we can’t see. Pretty common job. I get the impression the OP is willing to spend the money to do this.

The water comes up the center of the grey tube and then allows water into the tank through the outer portion of the grey tube -- you need to replace the fill valve completely or replace just the top portion to stop it from filling higher.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twynH8xVdy8

Do not ground the neutral. Neutral and ground are bonded at the service panel. If the yellow romex goes to your gas stove, you need to connect the ground wire to ...ground! If the conduit is grounded, you can connect it to the metal box.

For the cost of a new fill valve.... As long as you're capable..... Easier to replace rather than 'maybe' fix it to then fail again.

Is a 5min job with a spanner & sponge.

I almost want to say I can’t believe this is the only reasonable comment among 20 clueless “you need to consult a structural engineer”s, but at this point I’m not surprised that so many people with no idea what they’re talking about still think they need to say something. This is a problem that can be fixed for probably under $100 in material and an hour of work if you’re being generous (excluding time spent moving existing furniture and such out of the way).

The bottom of the grey tube lets water leak out of the grey tube into the tank. Replace the grey tube and whatever else comes with it. $13 tops.

Flat bar is the appropriate tool. I like the longer ones, they pop those nails right out.

dirty or failed float valve not fully closing, disassemble float valve, clean if it doesn’t work change the float valve entirely

Yes, it's old and it's very probable that it's cast iron.