I do have non-zero experience. Regardless I'm not really asking for advice on how to work with gas. I'm asking for an idea of what I need to be looking for to get this fireplace running. Even if I hire a plumber (and I probably will), I will still have to buy a fireplace set, and I have no idea what to buy, or even begin to look at prices, or anything.

Be careful when messing with k&t. It's been almost 40 years, but I found a circuit that had a light switch on the neutral side. I wasn't working on the whole house, so there may have been many more of those.

It's my goto fix for toilets...guts are cheap and easy to replace... the wax seal not so much

I do not recommend working with gas with zero experience.

Correct. When there is a blockage, the toilet will not flush correctly.

Thanks. Doesn’t seem others do, but then again, anyone can give advice on Reddit and it’s simply easier to say no when they don’t actually know what they’re talking about.

I am unsure of this, I am outside of the US. It's clear when there is a blockage that the flow of the flush is worse.

I think you know what you’re doing.

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Honestly I wouldn’t really worry about it until you go to replace it completely. K&t out in the open isn’t usually an issue. It’s when it’s buried in insulation that creates a heat issue. The outlet I presume is behind the stove so there isn’t a lot of use/ wear and tear on it. And the igniter and clock draw next to nothing

Whatever you do, please be sure to install at least one, ideally several working carbon monoxide (CO) detectors in your home. Gas fireplaces that aren’t vented correctly or that don’t burn off the fuel properly can produce carbon monoxide which is odorless, tasteless, colorless - essentially not detectable without specialized machinery - and can kill you or anyone in the home within minutes.

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Relax. Either answer the question or move on. Everyone’s already heard every possible snide comment here.

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I've worked in construction for 20+ years and have had to get engineered fixes to reframe around HVAC and/or plumbing in similar situations.

You're best bet is to double up your existing floor joists to the right and left of the intended joist to be cut. These need to run full length from one bearing point to the other. Buy yourself some 3 inch and 1-1/2 inch wide joist hangers from a nearby home improvement store, 4 of the 3 inch wide and 2 of the 1-1/2 wide hangers. Looks like 2x10 joists so make sure the hangers are at least 8 inches tall. Temporarily support the joist to be cut with a 2x4 down to the floor. Cut your intended joist as needed to create the pocket for the projector. Place a 2 ply 2x10 (or 2x8, it needs to be the same height as existing joist) across each end of the cut joist in-between the exciting joists so that everything is perpendicular and square. Temporarily attach with screws or nails. Attach one 3 inch wide hanger to each existing doubled up joist with 2-1/2 inch joist hanger nails or joist hanger screw. Do not use any other kind of nail or screw with these hangers. Finally attach the 1-1/2 inch wide hangers around the joist that was cut to the side of the new 2 ply joist header, again using joist hanger nails or joist hanger screws.

Might be worth it then. Check craigslist for engineering options if you want to go cheaper but there is possible trade off with time or quality. Do a google search if you are good to pay closer to the 3k total and chances are it will go faster and be a better design. Make sure to only pay 50% max up front or they might take forever to finish.

You can almost always get the desired size and height with a good projector ideally-mounted and with the correct lens

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…and that’s why I call an electrician, because they CAN find that stuff with various tools, and I know just enough to get myself in trouble with anything more complex than rewiring a line with correct AWG for the circuit.

It doesn't. Some other commenters might have the solution of just replacing the whole float valve assembly, the problem is likely with the grey tube.

There is no amperage loss. It's not a thing. There might be voltage drop and arcing.

None available at the time unfortunately 😔

We do stuff like this for toilets all the time, but the blue joists would run through, be doubled, and hang off the joists on the sides, then you would hang the trimmed joist off the hanger.

You would also probably want to block off between joists above the wall which will help the joist that continues beyond the wall to stay upright and help take the weight of whatever is above the wall.

Make sure that there is no structure above the piece of the joist you are taking out.

Re-route that electrical wire to the other side of the joist so that it doesn’t get in the way of the hanger and header.

If that sounds beyond your ability the get a professional to do it. And since they will cost as much as a new projector, then just buy a new projector that throws the distance that you need it to.

Before any of that: read your projectors manual in case you’re missing something that will allow you to adjust the projection to the space you have.

I’ve done that with engineering approval. Depending on the width of the projector I’ve sistered joists next to the one cut and headered each end of the joist cut to the sistered joist. Depending on subfloor thickness and span rating and dead and live load above would determine the max span in the cut

No. The box is nailed into wood. The k&t come through wood and insultators and there is no metal conduit all the way back to the panel. So that would be crappy ground.

If grill is outside you could hypothetically put ground rod in ground for that outlet, but not really correct or to code.