Recent comments in /f/DIY

mejelic OP t1_iy0zi3x wrote

I agree, the technical skill involved is very low here. I was more concerned in making sure that there WAS a proper way to handle this situation.

I may not have done the drawing 100% right, but I assumed that it would be similar in how I boxed out the hole in the rafters of my shed (per the plans). This is holding a bit more weight than my shed's roof though.

Sistering up the two joists to the left and right makes sense and what I expected was what would be needed. Thanks for the info!

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1998f1504x4 t1_iy0zgyy wrote

fixed link: https://imgur.com/a/pGNCC4S

In my opinion you will have to smash. I'd really like to see a better pic of the pieces the cupboard door hinges are attached to though. Another response said that your cupboards were "too cheap" to be t&g but I disagree - these are decently build cabinets.

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Knichols2176 t1_iy0z5f2 wrote

There should be a whole subreddit for broken dishwashers…it’s needed! I’m trying to find the old 1990 manual dial version of a dishwasher to upscale into my kitchen because I’m tired of paying for parts. It may waste water, but I have a well anyhow. Newer ones never last me more than 2 yrs without failing. It’s almost always that computer chip in the bottom front panel. Especially LG and Samsung. There’s a way to get error codes off of the dishwasher to tell you what went wrong.

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skydiver1958 t1_iy0z00z wrote

Just use a hammer and a cold chisel. usually one good smack knocks them out. Leaves a hole that any quick drying concrete patch will fix

You can buy a grinder and grind off but you will still have patching to do from the grinder. hammer and cold chisel always works for me for tack strip nails

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Diligent_Nature t1_iy0ypow wrote

>So if I move those connections into a metal junction box, can I place the single ground wire into the box, touching the sides of it, and it will then be grounded?

No. As I said, if the conduit is grounded, you can connect the ground to that box. You can't just install a metal box and expect it to magically be grounded. Otherwise run a ground back to the service panel.

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Big-Spend-2915 t1_iy0vqje wrote

Too many to read through. Yes it can be done. You will have to sister in another joist full length on both sides of the one you want to cut. Maybe even triple it depending on the span.
Next, where your wanting to cut out, you will need to double up both sides. That way your box is strong enough. Will need to also incorporate joist hangers on this too. Now, by moving the projector up those few inches and then literally putting a wall in front of it, is that going to do you any good?

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Lamacorn t1_iy0vmhg wrote

That’s very true, I’ve definitely done quite a few DIY that most people would not consider DIY. OP just didn’t strike me as a DIYer with much actual construction experience.

The whole project honestly seems kinda weird. If you want a nice movie room where the audio sounds great, you might want to start with a ceiling rather than open joists, but that’s just me. There is a reason movie theater walls have a fabric coating.

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reesea17 t1_iy0uojp wrote

You’re welcome. Price does depend on location.

In my opinion, DIY is all in the skill of the individual. YouTube has become an incredible resource in teaching and learning building skills. This job is honestly very simple in the end and only truly requires a hammer, a circular saw (preferably a miter saw), a drill, time, and guts (potentially a sawzall to remove the nails from the sub flooring to the joist top as well, although once cut on both ends it could likely just be pried out).

Sometimes the reason little jobs like this cost so much is because of their simplicity. They’ll charge more for the inconvenience if completing such a quick job. Not saying it’s right. Just what happens.

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Aquamarine_Androgyny t1_iy0slq6 wrote

If you can't find a way to straighten the door out via the pins then you probably will just have to take a sander to the part that rubs against the frame. Just sand the top edge of the door (no need to take the door off) little by little until it closes without rubbing. Sometimes the problem is just that the frame has started to sag and there isn't much you can do about it

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Syndicofberyl t1_iy0s9q5 wrote

I used to do hvac as an assistant. There's lots of thought that goes into an install.

What's your chimney liner like? Do you have a chimney liner? Is the interior of your chimney collapsed? Can you accommodate a direct vent setup? Do you have electricity at the fireplace? Is that gas line even still connected?

The previous owners removed the insert for a reason. Finding out why is a good step.

This is why you call a gas tech. They can come by and for a small fee give you an idea of whether or not your setup is workable, or if it's not. You strike me as someone who likes to save money and if you've gotta replace the chimney, that's not cheap and not to be done by amateurs. Further, the majority of insurance companies will fuck you sideways if you so much as breathe on a gas appliance without being licensed.

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