Ya anything that's not rotting you can salvage or reuse some how but the reality is when u demo it alot of stuff is gonna get damaged or you will be spending alot of time tediously removing it.. so sometimes it's better to just re do it. If the stairs are composite board those can be reused. Generally when u see lots of rot around like that chances are other areas are rotted just hidden behind paint.

Look into child locks. Had to put some on my shoe rack due to puppy going after shoes when bored.

Can you not just use a textured roller?

they make a spray bottle for orange peal texture. I guess it depends how good you are at applying it to match the current texture. Its a bit of an art.

You might have used too large of a nap on the roller so it applied too much paint.

I actually didn’t notice that it was parallel with it, thanks for calling that out. I just assumed it was underneath the joist, and was worried it was carrying load from the floor above.

it isn't that important especially if that is the top floor. if it were at all important it would be located under the ceiling joist not parallel with it. that being said, if you want to make sure that you are ok, you can put up some studs underneath the joist along the adjacent wall which you are not cutting away.

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Thanks for the explanations.

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Yes, newel extends through the tread. The treads are cut around the newel.

What OP is trying to accomplish isn’t really that different from boxing out an attic entry or attic pull down ladder well. With the right guidance and tool proficiency, could be a piece of cake.

I like to perform a practical test.

First you cut the stud, then if the roof caves in, you can safely determine that the stud was important.

You can get away with relocating it. Take your measurement of the opening you want (include the space required for the drywall as well) then place one bracing 2x4 above and one below.

You would want to check to see if it's either screwed in or nailed in. If it's nailed in prying it off is the answer, but if it's screwed then you have to remove the screws.

As far as the composite tread, in theory, it's that simple, yes. Just be careful if you do have to pry it, composite material is notoriously soft and marks easily. Also, does the 4x4 post extend through the tread?

Thank you for the detailed response, much appreciated!

Thanks. Dumb question: how to get the bottom riser off? Pry it off, or remove the tread and then pry it off?

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Also, the treads and the deck flooring is of something composite material secured with square slotted screws. Is removing the tread just removing the screws and lifting the tread off? Sorry for this basic question, but I am really new to how deck stairs and railings are done.

By redo it all do you mean to re do the whole railing+stringers+treads? If so, I am assuming to leave the newel posts as they are if they are not rotting?

I normally use an additional piece of downspout and connect it to the elbow at the bottom of the downspout. They come in 10' lengths and in several colors. I just cut them to the length that seems like it is long enough to do the job. Use sheet metal screws to hold it together. Make sure that you have it extended beyond any landscape edging that may trap water in a planting bed next to the foundation.

Tile guy comes tomorrow & as part of contract he is installing walls & waterproofing alcove tub. Should I install corner bead now, or just leave it loose for him to do as part of his work tomorrow?

Post a picture of the door.

Thanks for the fixed link! Yeah the shelves and walls of the cupboards are all some sort of melamine, but the doors and facing trim is all solid wood. That's what the hinges are attached to - the solid wood trim. There seem to be a couple staples and such attaching some of the trim, but not enough to hold them as firmly as they are.

I think they were maybe-built by a previous occupant - a lot of the stuff in the house is high end, very competent, home handyman stuff.

The problem is that there are basically no screws! Like I only need to remove the one centre piece diesn't have a single screw in it. So either its attached behind the trim, or its glued?

Resolved! We replaced the whole fill valve assembly with an $18 kit and that fixed the leak. Our water bill will be double the usual amount but at least we noticed and got it fixed!

Haha, it was just for reference.

Haha, it was just for reference.

Then it seems like you got this!👍

One option you might consider is that some short throw projectors can also be mounted below the screen projecting up. If yours has that option you could potentially put it behind the furniture.