If it is anything but flat paint(has any sheen)you will need to prime it before new texture, then you will need to reprime/paint.

You can visit almost any big box store to see that most dishwashers can freestand on their own, on their 4 feet, so as long as the board is long enough front-to-back, I wouldn't see a problem with it fitting.

The biggest concern I would worry about is securing it somehow to prevent it from tipping forward when the door is down and the racks are rolled out and loaded with heavy dishes. Normally this is just covered by the countertop, but other appliances (like our oven/stove) will use hook & notches secured into the back wall to avoid the tipping risk.

Even more so of a concern since your dishwasher will be elevated a bit, so a forward tumble could be way way worse.

If comfy doing so, pull the Romex off that K&T, put in a junction box (You can use a regular switch box with a blank cover) and then run the same type of Romex continued back to the panel and a 20A breaker of its own. It looks like 20A Romex, so make sure the circuit breaker and outlet match. Since it's in the kitchen, it should be 20A circuit, so you're part of the way there already. As to the rest of the K&T, unless you really know what you're doing, you just might want professional help.

That's exactly what will be happening eventually, for the temporary framing it'll sit slightly higher but eventually will sit flush with some room to spare for some air space.

I'm purely looking for a temporary install since we have the dishwasher but this house was not built for one. Remodeling the kitchen will be done quite a bit later and we just want a functional solution to use it now.

Agree. No 'problem' to do it. Note that, as shown in diagram, adjacent joists should be doubled to meet code. (If you didn't double them, would it fall down, probably not, but it might me more bouncy walking there than if you did it right.)

Thank you

They make a spring loaded kit that includes a magnetic catch to help hold it closed - I think you can find more online - this is one example. They sell them as hands-free openers. You push it closed with your foot, and release the mechanism with your toe and the bunjee pulls it open. It stays open until you push it closed. We have dogs and this keeps them out of the trash. I _Really_ like the no-touch aspect - especially with kids in the house - the handle for the trash can was always gross. This way you don't touch anything with dirty hands.

You can remove the handle completely so there isn't anything for doggo to grab onto.

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Opener-Pull-out-silver/dp/B00AAZJ46G

So the top will be higher than the two sides. Even after the remodel? What about the top several inches of the dishwasher? Box it in? For the remodel, seems like the dishwasher should be installed on the floor and route the heater under the toe kick of a cabinet.

You're very important, my dude. Don't sell yourself short.

What is a nap? But I think you are right with too much paint on the roller. Does that mean I could just achieve the correct texture by putting new paint over the top?

I did, I think it just had too much paint 🙈

Another Q: what kind of lumber do I need to replace the riser? If it matters, this is near Boston MA.

I will try that tomorrow. Assuming I need to replace one or more risers, what kind of lumber do I go buy?

I believe the stringers are separate from these, at least that what I gathered when I got under the stairs for a look see. The stringers looked good from my first looks. However, now that you point this out, I will take another closer look tomorrow from under the stairs.

Thanks. This was very helpful!

Yes, you can store them in this way.

You could also just store them in a StopLoss bag, or buy a can of finish preservative (argon gas) that you spritz into the big can of BLO.

Never ever use carpet in a basement. Ever.

Use Vinyl Click Flooring (Luxury Vinyl Plank). No adhesive required, and fully waterproof, unlike laminate.

Counter-weight on a cable.

I'll have someone come over and have it take a look before tearing the floor down. Thanks

Definitely I'll bring an expert to confirm, but I'm pretty confident is Terrazzo Stone. Terrazzo was incredibly popular in my country during the 50's and 60's to the point almost every house built during those decades had Terrazzo floors. Right now I'm at my Mother in Law apartment walking over a terrazzo floor.

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That said, the aggregate on the area I uncovered seems to be way smaller of what is commonly see on my country so I'll confirm with an Expert. Thanks

Yeah, that is how I have it now. The problem is that it has to be so low to the ground to get the size that I want that it is very inconvenient. I would have to either make something or get something custom made for it to be an ideal height.

Nah. It would just be for aesthetics composite will likely outlive you. I personally would though if u can find a matching filler

Good points. Thanks. One more Q: Once I remove the composite treads, do I reinstall them using screws at new locations? Then do I need to fill the holes where old screws were? (sorry, new to this stuff).

Take a screwdriver and lightly stab a few suspect areas or tap it with the butt of the screwdriver if u dont want to damage it. Good wood makes a nice solid knock whereas rotted wood doesn't make as much of a noise, a spongy noise or any at all

Hoping your riser and skirt are protecting a separate set of stringers that you can't see but sometimes the skirt itself is the stringer. I can't tell from here