Don't listen to these naysayers. All you need is a chainsaw and some sandpaper and you're good.

Look at the pump curve. The flow vs head graph.

As for tank valve, all of them can handle up to 40 psi easily.

What’s on the floor above it? And how long is the span. You could probably do it if you if you hanger a header in-between the two joists, where you have the blue drawn, and hanger the joist you are notching into the header, and same thing on the other side of the notch. Or better yet. Add a joist on each side of the joist you want to notch to where the projector would fit and then hanger in between those two joists. There is a lot of other information I’d need before saying to go for it. Also you might make a floor squeak above it, depending on what you do.

Dude you are way over-thinking this and so is most of the thread (and no one has looked at this specific mount as it's not a normal TV mount). Because it's actually two separate mini-mounts, all you need to do is fire four screws into each bracket in the outside corners.

Now, because the brackets aren't 16-18" long, no matter how you slice it, 2 of 4 screws on each bracket will always go into raw drywall. So, hit up Homedepot, buy the 75lb EZ Anchor 10 pc kit (like $10 tops) and then screw in this pattern (based on your pic):

Left Bracket: Two wood screws into the STAR-highlighted Stud, Two EZ Anchors and wood screws into the Triangle highlighted area to the RIGHT of the STAR.

Right Bracket: Two wood screws into the TRIANGLE-highlighted Stud, Two EZ Anchors and wood screws into the STAR-highlighted area.

This will give you four stud connections across the TV (two per bracket) and an additional 300lb of anchors as extra protection (150lb per bracket). You could just about hang off this TV with this much engineering (plz don't unless you use lag bolts)

This would also be a whole hell of a lot easier if the bracket was in one piece instead of two, but there you go.

A video from Samsung showing you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5-6xrZB_Lg

OP are you not finishing the ceiling off?

Hello! I just got a new storm door and looks like I need to add a 1/4" shim for it to fit properly. My issues is this, the storm door requires a 1" wide by 1" deep mounting surface. I thought I could get a piece of screen moulding and cut it to run the length of the door jam, but it's only 3/4" wide, not 1. Would I be able to find any pieces of wood at Home Depot that are 1/4" thick by 1" wide and long enough to run the length of the door jamb (80")? I know they sell wood shims but those are small and not installed along the the whole jam and I worry about cold air leaking in or that it just won't look that good. Anyone have any thoughts?

I have reasons to believe the problem lies elsewhere.

In my house I have this pipe that's connected to the system. This pipe is capped with some sort of de-pressuriser. This sometimes smells like sewage. Could this be the culprit?

Yes, you can do that. If the main panel is new there should be lots of open spots on the ground bar inside where you can fasten your ground wire. Of course, you need to turn off the main breaker to work inside the main panel.

I titled this post wrong, I'm trying to ground the ground wire, not the neutral lol! Thanks for your reply though. The breaker box is not far from the wiring in the picture. Can I extend the ground wire and run it back to the box and ground it there? The box was updated and is properly grounded.

Don't do it! You'll have to reinforce that section and you'll have jack posts in the way.

I realized I didn't answer your question. Don't exceed 60psi for well tanks. I would stay closer to 50 myself. They aren't designed generally to exceed 60.

Generally you should be able to run a jet pump at a higher pressure. If it wasn't capable it should list that which yours doesn't seem to. Hard to give a definite answer as all pumps as a bit unique despite being very similar.

Reading your question again it's clear that you're not worried about maximising life. If that's the case I would turn the pressure switch up and test it at a higher pressure, deliberately cycling it to see how to responds. If the pump on time is reasonable compared to the factory 20/40 then it should work for now even if it's shortening the overall life of your pump.

Just do the wood tapping. If the stringers are treated and sitting on shingles or something it should be ok

Just don't buy spf.(spruce pine fir) Cedar at the very least. Treated wood is best but it doesn't take to paint as well as the latter due to the coating and its usually damp. Check your local hardware store there's some special boards that they use for fascia that holds up well and usually comes primed

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The pump says it has 25ft of lift, the fittings on the second floor should be about 20ft, so I figured I wouldn't have too many losses getting it there. This pump was given to me with the house, so I didn't really do any research into the pressure of the tank, but my Q is more about the pressure tanks max pressure. Are jet pumps maxed out at that 40psi, or is it the delta that's important? I'd like to have it max out at 60PSI, although 50 would probably work. I just don't want to spend another $500 having a plumber come and hook up a new pump in a month or two if I grenade this one lol

Good point.

Just because it's a higher horse power doesn't mean the pump is designed to achieve the same head pressure. You can have a 50hp pump that's designed for low grade pressures. If your pump cannot generate enough pressure to counter act the cost of lifting the water to the height of the second floor that's why your flow will suffer.

If I remember correctly it's approximately 1psi lost per meter increase in elevation from pump.

Omg use a tapcon ans be done. Don't turn it into a science project it's a screw!

God help this generation that can't mount a tv without instructions from the net

Best part is u/mec2012 sending me a private message to say I was being mean to them. Buddy either answer the question or move on.

Thanks for, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I can't imagine bracing it would be too difficult.

The surface area of the board for the feet does cover the entire length for the washer.

Kidding

A nap is a short sleep in between texturing….