Why is the garbage drawer not getting closed after it's been used?

Maybe you could change the angle of the drawer slides to slope down toward the back. Then gravity would pull them closed. If there's a cabinet face, you'll have to realign that somehow though.

That is good to know. Should I need to put in new screws, I now know what to get.

Thank you for the reply. I know zero about lumber and only now beginning to learn, so this was very helpful.

I have a waffle iron from my grandmother. It's OLD. And works (worked?) great. Not looking to replace it with something modern. Pretty simply workings, but what I can't understand is how the "thermostat" works.

The last few times I used the waffle iron, it seemed like the thermostat wasn't controlling the top element and it was staying on at all times. I kept turning it down, and the top was burning, bottom wasn't cooking. And yes, both elements do work.

I'm not understanding how one element could stay on while the other is off based on the thermostat. So I'm trying to understand exactly how this thermostat works. Any thoughts?

https://imgur.com/xLaRCZV

https://imgur.com/fwG0vnY

Wet and dry sandpaper. Some sandpaper is dry only and will come apart if wet, wet n dry is designed to be used wet or dry and in this case I would use it wet.

Edit for more clarity; I would have a bucket of soapy warm water with me and would regularly dunk the sandpaper and clear it out so it doesn’t clog. Might not be needed, hard to tell how much sanding is needed from pics, but it will massively extend the life of the sandpaper and it’s effectiveness to keep it from getting full of gunk.

Yea, I am not surprised this failed. You need to nail this, all of it, not just where it is popping off the wall, everywhere. 18 gauge brad nails, use a paintable wood filler to fill the holes, sand, then paint, you will not see any nail holes.

Pin nailers work well, but don't buy a pinner just for this.

For future reference, in certain applications, just gluing things works well. This is not one of them, you still need to mechanical fastening.

There's probably a sprayer or a technique you can use

Oopsie

I am. What does that have to do with this though?

This is in the basement, above it is the utility wall that takes things like plumbing, HVAC, and electrical to the 2nd floor.

From other comments, it seems like the appropriate way here is to sister up the side joists and then create a box where I need to remove the joist.

I might even add some blocking between the joists for further support.

You rent? Tell your landlord.

Thank you! I just checked it and you're right, the screen moulding will definitely work. And thanks for the tip on buying longer screws!

> I also don't want to nail it to the wall as that just doesn't look nice to me even if I painter over the nail.

when you nail trim, you can use a nail punch on the nails, then putty over them before you paint. you wont even see there is a nail there

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I've been running a 3/4hp jet pump with a 40/60 switch for the last 15 years.

However changing the pressure limits won't make a difference if the pump can't maintain the flow.

For example my pump will start running about 3 minutes after starting a shower and will continue running holding about 35psi until the water is shut off.

Silicone may work if you cut the tip at an angle. I would also recommend you seriously consider a pin nailer. The holes left by them are super tiny and can be filled with a crayon.

If there are patches of damp, there may be bridging between the outer and inner wall allowing moisture to wick across,

Possible causes of this are debris in the cavity, cavity wall insulation etc. Often happens below windows for some reason.

Painting Thompson waterseal on the outside wall worked for us, along with having the cavity insulation removed.

Leaking gutters also can cause this, or make it worse if the leak runs down the wall.

All these things are fairly pricey fixes and your landlords responsibility.

Edit Just read you cleaned the gutters out, that's a good start, Also the state of exterior pointing can cause issue.

My only suggestion is to see if you can bypass the pressure switch (that determines cut in/out pressures). With the pump continuously running - determine the maximum pressure of the pump with a gauge and verify that pressure/ flow is adequate upstairs.

Perhaps you can change or adjust your switches (depends on model), so that the cut off is ~5-10psi below this maximum.

If pressure/ flow is not adequate with pump continuously running - new pump will be required.

Chemist here. You will need a chlorinated organic solvent. Using petroleum, solvents and distillates for cleaning floors is common and dangerous, and can cause brain damage and cancer.

The most readily available would be tetrachloroethylene. More commonly referred to as Brakleen Red. Any turdzone will have it. They even make an extra large can with a jet spray nozzle. Evaporates clean with little residue, is not flammable, and prob the strongest adhesive remover available commercially. A lot of times it’s wiped off the shelves it’s not a secret. That and some people use it to clean pharmaceutical freebases of illicit drugs. Just saying.

Once it penetrates underneath it will be a cake walk. It’s also heavier than water, so it will sink and continue to, displacing water upwards.

Your next option, although advise against it would be toluene. OR it’s shitty little brother xylene. These two petroleum solvents are capable of melting plastic at room temperature. Also toxic, flammable extremely, and pricey. Buying large quantities of these may give you some funny looks at check out. because they to, are often involved in the production of methamphetamine. I would stick to a max of 2 gallons or less. That would be normal.

Lastly, I’ll suggest the most powerful cleaning substance that I’m aware of called piranha solution. It is a combination of concentrated virgin sulfuric acid(Kleen out) mixed with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Always add to acid never add acid to anything. It must be mixed in a glass vessel, because within seconds it will reach upwards of 300° and be boiling independently by itself. This is what the cartels use in 55 gallon plastic drums to dissolve the victims in. from what I’ve heard, it can chop down a whole body in less than a week. Me personally, I just use it to clean glass wears.

There you go, buddy there’s ya hitchhikers guide to clean floors

I'm assuming the metal frame has an angle profile with holes for screws to go into the door frame at 90 degrees to each other. So some on the face of the frame and some on the inside of the frame. I'd mount the 3/4 screen molding an 1/8 or 1/4 in from the face of the door frame so that the holes in the metal angle line up with the center of the 3/4 molding. Pre-drill your holes or the molding will split. This will leave a small gap in the inside corner but that shouldn't make the metal frame loose or unsupported provided you get good connection from both the face and inside screws. You may want to buy screws for the inside holes that are a 1/4 inch longer so you still get good grip into the wood door frame.

Thank you so much

The square slotted screw is probably a Robertson drive type. They are popular for decks as they don't strip out as easily.

Accuride makes a self closing glide. DZ3832-SCSelf Close Drawer Slide

I haven't used it personally but if you contact the local accuride rep near you they can provide more information

Thank you for this. I appreciate all the suggestions in this post, half stud half anchors looks like the way to go. Regarding anchors, I'm curious about one of the suggestions in this post to use toggle bolts. Would you recommend these over the EZ Anchors?

It doesn’t sound like you have yours set up right at all. I never have to do anything with the app unless we have a power outage. It’s completely autonomous.