This is a temporary setup and 'looks' are obviously aren't important here. Not sure why you want to frame in the bottom area or the sides.

If it was me I would just move the shelf you have there down to the height you want. Go ahead and just move that trim wood above and below the shelf down to where you want it.

Dishwasher isn't that heavy and that board looks strong enough to me.

I'd also consider just pushing the dishwasher to one side and then you have 8" of storage space that you can work with.

Pipe wrench is the next step. It will scratch the plastic, but so what.

If the chuck can open freely, then this is probably the solution. However, if the chuck is binding around the bit and can't open to give the bit room to release, doing this will just break the bit.

> just make sure it breaks so that it still sticks out.

How does one do that?

I’m wanting to drain my water softener into my homes main waste line. I purchased an air gap and p trap and will tie in at a vertical section. Will this work?

https://imgur.com/a/Vmb9IAV

Reading up on it there doesn’t seem to be a special trick, just push the spindle lock button and twist anti clockwise.
However, keyless chucks do sometimes bind and one trick is to tap the end of the drill bit sharply with a hammer. Obviously this might damage the end of the bit, so wear safety glasses.

Well, it will depend on what exactly is causing it to stick. Lubricant and then gently heating the chuck with a heat gun might help. As might tapping the chuck with a small hammer or wrench while you are applying leverage. Unless you don't mind losing the drill, I'd avoid going just a straight more force route.

It is semi-soldered to drill because of missuse. Bit probably were stuck in object while drill head still tried to spin it.

You will need to pull and easy hit bit from all sides, if it breaks just make sure it breaks so that it still sticks out.

And unscrew the head completely to give it room.

Maybe something rigged like a breaker bar around a strap that you can add lots of length for leverage?

Most likely it's kind of hung up on a burr... I remember regularly using one that was at a job and just more leverage was the answer.

Otherwise I don't have any great ideas as I doubt this is a lubricant scenario.

Its a KR714CRES

Can you give the drill model number?

I tried with a strap wrench but to no avail

Looks like a keyless chuck....maybe a strap wrench would help.

The wall is getting regularly soaked or water is condensing there.

Check the outside when it's raining to see if water runs across or splashes near that bit of the wall (doesn't have to be exact), and get a humidity sensor, if the room is humid, buy a ~£100 dehumidifier, not one of the tiny protable ones, a suitcase sized unit. It will take a few days running non stop to dry out the room, pulling tens of litres of water out.

The dehumidifier will make the heating more efficient, speed up drying clothes and stop mold as well.

Took about a fortnight to dry out our flat when we moved in and that was all from long term condensation.

Got to love people downvoting out of spite. Grats bud - get some help setting it up right and this room is gonna be a BANGER!
:D

If the fibers were left after an asbestos removal project, they may not be asbestos. The asbestos removal folks who worked on my house removed a bathroom floor because the tile had asbestos in it. The bathroom was not even on the list of items to check. They found the stair treads to the basement had asbestos and several other obscure tile patches under the water heater and a washer. They really tested everything!

The most impressive part of the cleanup was the clean room approach, they used zip walls to create plastic rooms around all exposure point and sealed second chambers to get in and out. All air circulation was completely filtered with special filters. The room had to be washed down and the air filtered until a air quality meter showed a safe level of particulates for an extended period of time.

Best $1500 (1993) I spent for my family and my mental health of not having to worry any more.

Watch a Youtube. Do the job appropriately and it will never come off again.

Alternatively, you can add 1/8" or 1/4" round and place above or you could fill the gap with caulk. These options will look worse than just doing the job correctly.

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Can’t just mail anywhere. Have to hit a stud or angle your nail down into the plate if you have a 2 1/2 inch nail. Then fill the nail holes and caulk the top joint against the wall and then paint.

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[deleted]

You could use whichever you're more comfortable with and nothing will happen either way because the brackets are already hitting the stud in two locations. The two non-stud anchors on each bracket are really only there to stop the bracket from flexing/twisting under the weight. I personally like EZ Anchors because you just screw them into the wall where you want and are done. Toggle bolts are very strong but definitely more tricky to do through TV brackets if you've never done something like that before.

To put your mind at ease, I have a 30lb articulating mount on a 100lb TV and only use four screws for the entire thing and my bracket can come out almost 2 feet. Now they are lag bolts (thicker screws) but if you're using the flush-mount samsung kit you're looking at maybe 50-60lb total for the TV and the brackets are maybe 2-3lbs on an install that never moves. You could probably fire two 3" deck screws screws into the middle of each bracket on the stud and the TV would never move. Don't do this, but I want to make you more comfortable with the amount of support you're throwing at this TV with 4 75lb anchors and 4 stud-screws.

I guess I don't understand the vision of burying the projector inside the ceiling - is it a short-throw?

I would like to add padding to a bag and some pouches to carry my photo gear and my laptop but I don't know which material would suit the best.

I thought of EVA foam and neoprene. The thing is, I'm afraid that would fall apart or crumble in small pieces after a while. Ultimately, I would put microfiber on it but still, it would be best to have a padding as durable as possible.

What would you recommend me?