Electrician trick for wiring into pipes (don't get me in trouble with electricians by sharing) tie a long strong string into a wad of tissue paper roughly the size of the pipe. Stuff the wad I to the end with the string tid on your end. Then put an air compressor on the end and seal it enough so the air blows the string down through the pipe with the paper. Then tie your cable to the string and pull it back through the pipe.

Electrician said he pulled a 2 mike wire through a pipe like this.

You could probably run Ethernet w/o conduit. I dont think it carries a strong enough electrical current to be a fire hazard in the walls.

It's fine to do, sure, but could get complicated with a long run and one that has bends and curves. Hopefully, they left a cord in the conduit to tie a future cable to and pull through.

Make sure the empty conduit isn’t a vent pipe for your plumbing.

Do you know if it's a dedicated line from your data closet? If so & the conduit is empty tie off a pull string to your cable so you can pull a 2nd line later in life assuming it's big enough.

In general, I don't run pre-terminated Ethernet. I find it far far easier to pull it and then terminate it myself. You can find spools of it on Amazon, and then you'd need to buy the proper tools to terminate (about $100-150 investment including a bigger spool). You can try buying a premade cable and pulling it with a fish tape and line, but depending on the size of the conduit you may get stuck.

You could just buy powerline adapters.

If there’s indeed conduit already run, that’ll be a hell of a lot easier. But if it has lots of twists and turns, that’ll complicate things (unless the conduit already has something in it). Remember you only have so much control when feeding a wire to encourage it to turn at a junction—even the pro’s will deal with the same limitations of physics. Maybe there’s a world where you can run the cable through the conduit with some powerful magnets?

also, do I just buy about a 30meter ethernet cable from amazon to run through the conduit or is there a special kind I need?

You are going to need a fish tape to pull the wire through the conduit.

You might need to rent or buy a fish tape but yes that sounds fine

Generally, I don’t think running low voltage yourself is against code anywhere if that’s what you’re asking.

If you’re asking more “how” and you think the conduit goes from one room to another, get some pull string or fishing line and tie a balled up grocery bag to it and stuff it in one end. Use a vacuum in the other end to get the pull string through. Tie/tape your Ethernet cable to it and pull it back through. If you have fish tape, you can rub that through instead

Yes, you can. But be very sure that it's actually empty, if you're not sure how to check - hire an electrician to check.

Yes

I agree with some of the other commentors - would probably rebuild entirely, maybe save the treads for reuse if they look decent. Cutting stringers and building stair railings aren't the easiest things for a beginning carpenter, you will want to read up on it and watch a few youtube videos at a minimum if you are doing it yourself. Use treated for any framing (the stringers etc), and then for any trim boards and the railings you will want to use something rot resistant that holds paint well such as cedar, or Accoya. If rebuilding the whole thing is a feels a bit out of your wheelhouse, you can certainly replace some of the fully rotted boards and then use a product such as Abatron Epoxy on smallish chunks of rot. Epoxy is fairly easy to use as long as you can follow directions, and it's a very high quality fix for minor rot. The bottom of the balusters and where the toprail is toenailed to the newel could good candidates for epoxy. Whatever you do, disregard any advice to use bondo, spray foam, caulk, etc to fill any large voids (haven't seen any yet...)

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So, I was trying to put together some cheap particle board furniture from Amazon, and I broke the screw holes by not working in a suitable place to assemble furniture that delicate. Is there a way to repair the screw holes while not spending a fortune or should I learn wood working and build a better desk out of more quality materials?

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Often your issue is pretty much the opposite of what you might expect. Older houses were built with an expectation that there would be airflow, and usually with lime plaster walls that are breathable (and lath and plaster ceilings that insulate relatively well - heat and sound), and often without cavity walls (so single skin) etc.. So they act differently from later construction. A lot of the time that plaster ends up either being replaced by gypsum, being skimmed with gypsum, or being wallpapered/painted with materials that aren't breathable, and people block off the various ways you used to have airflow..

When people insulate, especially if they do it relatively cheaply/simply add insulating material to cut air flow, you end up in a situation where you don't lose heat, but you do retain moisture and you end up with condensation. The result is then really commonly wet wall areas (spots if you have bits of patched plaster for example, or corners where external walls are cold), and then mould. It can be more of an issue if you have lots of layered crap on the walls (think multiple layers of wallpaper and then paint...), especially if you also end up with damp between layers...

That said, if you are stripping the wallpaper (and good luck with that if it hasn't been done in a while, I think the record we had was two dozen layers...) take a look at what is behind it. You should be able to spot lime plaster (it'll look more like concrete), if that's what you've got, and its in good condition, then let it dry out before you do anything else. If it does dry out nicely then you are on to a winner and I'd suggest taking a look at the wallpaper you use, some are permeable/breathable, some are not, you'll likely want something more permeable.. If however you can't dry the room out (without using a dehumidifier...) when you have the wallpaper off, you'll probably want to talk to someone about balancing insulation with airflow, if that's even possible.

Although if its a rental, speak to your landlord first..

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Took some bad parts out. Photo 5 in the post now. Looks like the rot was starting from the bottom where it was touching the soil. Some roots of the plan were creeping behind the front white fascia!

​

What you wrote about the wood selection still holds? Looks like I need something that can touch soil. Wonder if there is any thinig I can treat the wood with to make it last longer.

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Edit: typos.

For baseboard trim going into sheet rock, you can nail basically anywhere. I’d recommend slight angles to keep everything tightly together, but this isn’t holding any kind of weight. (Experience: I’ve redone all the trim in my house years ago and have not had any issues)

Did that. See Photo 5 that I added in my post. The wood parts under the top painted fascia seem good. Looks like I just need to replace the top parts (?)

Link to the photo in the original post: https://preview.redd.it/v9vcztj3zp2a1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f964b7cf02bed33322d36b7e69901215621a89b

The framing idea is so the heat vent wouldn't be blocked by the dishwasher, this way I could just extend it out to have uninterrupted heat.

Our home can get quite cold so I want to make sure it gets full effectiveness.