Thanks for the reply, have a sample to test when ready. I'm not sure I have the steady hand to keep it from biting the wood unfortunately :(

Have you tried using the parametric search on mouser or digikey? Because utilising that, I can find lots of transistors that would work for your application, like the BCP/BCX55T for example, although it is a little slower.

OP could shut off the main breaker at the box I'd think? (I only have metal tapes, but I use them more for running cat 5 without conduit).

You definitely can. It's called cut and seal. It's basically copper azole which is what they use on treated lumber.
Creosote is the best but I think it's illegal now as it causes cancer.

Another trick is to use an air compressor. As long as the path has only one way for the air to escape, the string will completely follow the air path to that exit. So you may need to tape up any spots that you don't want the string to follow.

It will make some crazy zig zaggy paths (if needed) to reach the end. But it works.

I had seen a guy doing that on his concrete floors, but I was under the impression steam is very bad for hardwood floors?

You absolutely can however if you have empty conduit already in the wall going where you want it, it will be much easier to run it through that.

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You most certainly can run Ethernet through conduit. We do it in the trades regularly. However, I will recommend that you don’t run electric and Ethernet through the same conduit as that will cause interference with your Ethernet cable and more than likely make your connection wonky.

when we run Ethernet cable, we zip tie it to the conduit and then have the Ethernet cable go into the box through a romex connector or through a plastic bushing/connector specially made for Ethernet cables. Pm me for pictures if you have any questions. Good luck!

Them Pee-cuts'll get ya every time

looks like once you start you will find that there are way more issues than you can see right now.

I think you will be replacing the whole thing.

Pro tip: Be ever so careful when removing the carriages so as to preserve them to use to lay out the new ones ( unless you want a different step pattern).

Use PT for all of it you might be able to reuse those treads. Might.

I have combined the vacuum with a compressed air nozzle on the other end to supercharge the pull on PITA runs. Works great with masons line and then you can pull in a heftier string or the wire directly depending on the situation.

Wallpaper steamer works great for this. Get it wet/warm enough that it comes up with a drywall knife. It'll stay gummy that way so you're not masticating it into dust.

Of course, remove at your own risk as it may contain asbestos.

Have you ever heard the term "thin air"? When you pull on air it stretches. The more air between you and what you want to pull the more space air has to stretch, and the more air there is to stretch. This overworks your vacuum. The longer the pipe, the less efficient the vacuum is. The air has friction against the surface area of the pipe and adds drag which stretches the air thin.

Could I do it? Yes, absolutely.

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Could you do it? Sounds iffy since you are asking this question to Reddit.

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If you can get a pull rope through it, then yes it should be easy. Start with using some nylon string (it needs to be strong) and tie a paper towel or tissue to the end of it. Use a vacuum cleaner and suck one end of the pipe while someone else feeds in the tissue and string. Be careful not to overshoot since you will be vacuuming up a bunch of string and that won't be good. Next use electrical tape to connect the wire to the string and see if it will pull in. Terminate the ends, and you're done.

You can splice basically any cable. The splice WILL negatively affect the signal so it's a game of whether you can afford that

Firstly, be aware there is a high chance it contains asbestos. Get it tested, and ensure you follow guidelines and regulations for its removal and disposal. Don’t just rely on your neighbor.

I’ve used these before with success on wood, you just need to be careful on controlling the aggressiveness. https://www.jendcosafety.com/diamabrush-7-mastic-removal-hand-tool/

And the quality of the cable as well.

Wow I really like the grocery bag idea. Thank you.

Hey, if you decide to buy a fish tape and try this do not get a metal one. Fiberglass only. Unless you're absolutely sure where it goes, you may wind up pushing a fish tape directly into your panel, and if you're pushing a metal one you're liable to get hurt. And unless you can visually or physically verify it's the same conduit, you shouldn't be sure where it goes.

Generally I'd say hire an electrician, but I'm an electrician, so I'm biased. Right now, if that conduit isn't connected to your electrical system in any way, it's just a pipe in your walls, nothing special about it. The problem is confirming that. Frankly, I'm not recommending you shove even a fiberglass fish tape through, just saying if you decide to push something down an unverified conduit, make sure it isn't conductive.

It seems the sink in my Kitchen has started to have the Linoleum chip away. Is there a good way to fix it? Or a recommended way to fix it?

In my house everything is twisted pair (up to the GPON). I've seen some splicing done because we wouldn't redo the wiring, and it was fine (15 meters or so, 100Mbps). Now I have proper unspliced Gigabit links.

>male ends as the little retaining clips tend to get broken

If you have to pull a preterminated cable, it can be really helpful to tape those down.

Its actually the same 100m recommendation, just with Cat6a.

Clever. Thanks for the tip to both push and pull techniques.