Fair point, I am an hvac guy so Intake=short, fat, output= long pipe

Southwest high desert? High desert as in Victorville in southern cali?

yeah but if you get just one screw in, you're relying on friction to keep it level rather than the combined sheer strength of the screws in addition to the friction.

I know it's a vain hope. The plan is to fully sand and refinish the whole house at some point, but if I can get away with not having to for the next year while I'm remodeling it would be a bonus. But the flooring above needs to go now unfortunately.

I only mentioned the asbestos in the first place because I knew people would warn about it. If it were friable I would be much more concerned, but the tile appears to be taking most of the mastic with it and my understanding is that the tile is the greater of the two evils. I've been around abatement teams and seen how they operate, and truthfully if I'm gonna die of lung cancer it'll most likely be from the air quality in wildfire season ¯_(ツ)_/¯

That is great to know. Thank you for all this wonderful info.

I'm no expert but have dabbled in old hardwood floor restoration before, in the best of worlds after you removed all this stuff it would be good to give the entire floor a good sanding and re-varnish. These steps would eliminate any minor damage caused by biting the wood.

But then again some of your other comments give me the impression you intend to preserve the varnish so maybe none of this applies to your situation

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Running high voltage isn't against code either.

The only question is permitting / code requirements and AFAIK there really aren't any for low voltage other than really really obvious things like "dont run non-plenum cable through plenums."

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The difference in pressure on the 2 sides of the wad is what pushes it.

If you use a vacuum, your high pressure side is roughly 15 psi and the other is maybe 0 (probably more, but whatever). So the max difference is 15 psi.

If you use pressure, the low pressure side is 15 psi, but the high side can now be whatever your compressor gives. Maybe 90 psi or more. So the pressure difference is much higher.

When pushing long distances where there will be more drag due to the line being pulled, the higher pressure difference will help more.

While the air is "stretchy," that's not really what matters.

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i recently completed an in-home ethernet installation retrofit in my own house doing this so it's totally fine. as for "how" a lot of people have explained the vacuum trick. i will say that if your line gets stuck, as mine did. you may have to unscrew the rigid conduit from the straps and do some manual pulling if there are a lot of bends.

Are you the renter or the landlord? If the former, call the latter. If you’re the latter, there’s already some good starting points posted.

Probably not an issue if you are running it through conduit as a homeowner, but in general it's a good idea to run plenum grade Ethernet cable if it's going through the walls or attic. Plenum grade cable is more fire resistant and may be required to meet some types of code. The downside is that it tends to be a bit more expensive and is usually stiffer which can make it harder to work with.

The only problem with powerline is what you mentioned....depends a lot on the existing wiring. Older houses have bigger issues with this than newer ones.

This is the real tip, I've even seen electricians almost kill themselves with metal fish tape!!!

You don't need conduit, although if you're running it through something like a cold air return I believe you need Plenum rated cable. For both my current and previous house I used existing in-wall runs of coaxial and/or telephone lines to run ethernet. Just pulled the cover off, cut the cable, taped the ethernet to it and went into the basement to pull it through. Mind you, I didn't have a lot of bends to deal with, and we ditched landline and cable years ago so we didn't care about the existing lines.

btw the air compressor/vacuum method is called Pigging(using a Pipe Pig) vs Fishing.

4" razor scraper and elbow grease, but the blade will want to dig in. There are handy carbide scraping tools that may resist gouging the floor as well.

When that happens I usually fashion a tiny parachute and attach it to the string, then vacuum. The parachute can bounce around in the diameter of the tube a bit better so is less likely to get snagged on the existing wire as it gets pulled through.

I wouldn't worry too much about the finish on the wood flooring - you're going to have to strip it and refinish it anyhow.

Also, don't get too awful excited about the asbestos. It's not the 'plutonium' so many people think it is and a couple accidental instances of inhaling some won't give you lung cancer, and sounds like you have the PPE covered. Chew on this: A lot of aftermarket brake pads still have asbestos.

While it's certainly possible, an important factor is the type of conduit and internal diameter. Is is blue with ridges (smurf tube) and meant for low volt? Is it grey PVC or metal conduit meant for electrical runs? Or is it white PVC meant for an in wall vacuum?

Where is the other end?

Smurf tubes will often be a straight run with no interruptions.

Electrical conduit will require an access point every 360° or less. Electrical conduit also often runs to other j-boxes in other rooms.

Vacuum runs will be run like plumbing drains and have branches that lead to a central trunk.

They type of conduit can help determine the best method of running ethernet cable, whether vacuum, compressor or fish. A picture would help.

When you feel wind, that air is pushing on you and compresses a bit against you. Air can stretch and thin out, or it can compress and push.

OK bit of an odd question but trying to work out the size of something. I'm looking to buy my friend some new pocket sleeves for her photobook you know the thin plastic sleeves you can slide photos in and out of. But I'm not sure on what size I need. It's an A4 size folder I believe and then inside there is 3 photos on a page. 3 rectangular shaped photos fit on one page so the photos themselves would have to be about A6/A7 size. Which do u think is more likely?

My advice in another comment was to take a shop-vac and run it as a blower, then stick the hose onto the conduit/h-box. Have someone else with the panel cover off listening/feeling for air coming out of any conduit.

This is a concerning one for me though. Removing/replacing the cover could be problematic. It’s residential, and I see spare data conduits being left by contractors as… a dubious event. At least outside the context of custom homes.