I am actually not familiar with the parametric search. How would I go about performing a parametric search in Digikey or Mouser?

Probably not practical with how much you have to take off but I was able to wipe off a small area with Goo Gone

With large floor buffer and a mastic removal wheel.

https://youtu.be/8z-U2pmJi4s

If you're question is "Can I remove this stuff and get to 'nice' floors with no additional steps?", then the answer is most likely "No". Once you get that stuff up, the floors are going to need to be refinished.

Are you going to have someone else refinish them? If so, I'd just have them handle it. If you're going to refinish them yourself, you'll end up having to rent a machine to do it anyway. Call around to local tool rental places. Your local big box might have them, but the independent/dedicated rental outfits are often more helpful if you tell them what you're trying to do and they can get you the right stuff.

The tar is also not good for hardwood floors. Steam is at least less bad than tar.

At this point you cannot fuck it worse than it’s already fucked. Outcome options are horrible failure which results in some nice looking LVP, or shining success resulting in perfectly refinished hardwood. Both outcomes are wildly better than where you are now with carpet ripped up and linoleum partially removed down to the uneven adhesive.

Most adhesives will come up with heat or a solvent. Try steam and heat gun before solvent(diesel, mineral sprits, turpentine) but keep a fire extinguisher and water bucket nearby when using the heat gun. Use a 4” metal putty knife, so you don’t melt it to the floor, to scrape away tar loosened by the steam/heat gun.

You might need to visit the actual link to see the captions/details, the embedded viewer isn't showing them for some reason.

This is an install on a 2023 Subaru Legacy with Eyesight. I installed a Blackvue dashcam using their hardwire kit to enable parking mode.

Ah yeah that would point to my inexperience I'm sorry. I'll post a pic when I get home.

I agree, but it would be something I would try out before I tried buying a fish tape and running a line through an unknown conduit. Worst case it doesn't work and gets returned.

Just thought I would throw it out there.Sometimes people get creative and underestimate how much length they have added.

Homeowners can get a permit and do it themselves AFAIK. You do need to abide by code requirements.

Just to give you an answer on the miter saw if/when you go that route, a 10" saw should be more than sufficient for minor home repairs like this and small to medium woodworking projects. If the 12" was a viable option budget-wise, I'd say better to use that extra instead on a basic folding miter saw stand, a quality blade or two, that sort of thing.

I mean it's a tradeoff, right? And only you know what kind of work you're aiming to be able to handle in the near future. A 12" can handle wider and thicker stock, and when that's what you're working with (like if you're cutting 2x6's for some framing work or something) then it's great, and the extra weight is an afterthought for the tool that does what you need it to do. But from what you're describing, I'd say a better quality 10", a stand, and a good blade or two should serve you very well for awhile.

Use EVA foam inside a fabric layer.

Try boiling water. It'll probably turn into a gummy mess that you can scrape of really easy. The wood will be fine if you dry it quickly after. Do a little area at a time. It doesn't need to soak in.

Post a pic of the damage and we can help you.

I very much doubt that your sink is made of linoleum.

Post a picture of the sink and the damage.

Never heard it called that and I've been in the trade a while, but every area has its own trade terminology

This makes some sense, and plays into the pressure differential example the other commenters gave, thanks for taking the time!

Not Cali, more like the Colorado Plateau region :)

Yes this does help, thanks

Okay now this makes sense to me

The plan is to eventually sand everything and re-varnish it, but 90% of the house is hardwood in seemingly good shape. I was honestly hoping for some miracle cure that might let me just wipe the old mastic off 😂 It's still slightly tacky so there was a hope

plastic

I thought in some localities you could not run high voltage without a permit, people still do of course.

I had the same thing done at my house they put a liner down with tar mastic and then tiled over the wood floor. I tried everything and then remembered some words of wisdom my grandfather gave me about getting tar off of vehicles and that was diesel fuel liquifies tar. So after trying everything, I came up with a plan to get a mop and bucket, diesel fuel, play sand and a wire brush on a broom handle. I would mop the diesel fuel onto the floor, let it sit for a little while, hit it with the brush and it would come right off with no effort, but it would mix with the diesel fuel and make a black thick liquid. So I would throw the play sand on it to soak up the liquid. Then use a broom to move the sand around until it was too soaked to pick up anymore, then I would sweep it onto a shovel and dispose of that sand.

Every other way was an inch by inch method, you cannot sand it off, scraping it off does not work, and strippers do not lift it off very well. Using diesel to liquify it, was a smelly and messy process, but I did about 1400 sq ft. in a day this way, where as all the other methods I tried combined only netted me about 100 sq. ft over the course of several days.

Dehumidifier is your only option

Best answer.