Recent comments in /f/DIY

Kyanche t1_iy5fuyy wrote

Is the principle behind these sorts of things being safe that the wires going to the mirror have to be rated for 7.5A because the smallest fuse on that panel is 7.5A? So you can safely wire additional things inline without the risk of running too much current through the wires?

I've always been sketched out at the idea of tapping existing connections because I figured they wouldn't have much available overhead. Heheh. I mean, there's no telling if that mirror isn't already wired with lights and other things that take up the rest of the (presumed) 7.5A circuit?

It'd be much nicer if I could just make a little extension cable instead of sticking tap pins into the connector like that.

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btribble t1_iy5em25 wrote

Mask up with a good mask, get a couple cheap disposable protective "onesies" online, put plastic sheeting on everything you don't want dust on/in, and create negative pressure with a box fan in an open window. Keep dust down with a spray bottle with water in it. Wear your worst clothing and toss it in the trash. Shower when you're done. It's not hard or expensive to be safe.

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knightlife t1_iy5ejik wrote

You sure know your stuff! Thanks for indulging. I’ve vastly enjoyed running my wires through interior partition walls way more than my exterior walls with insulation (and blocking in one case! That was a nightmare!). I’ve just never run with conduit so wasn’t too sure about all the particulars. Who knows how OP’s conduit was installed but these are all great considerations to take into account.

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shikuto t1_iy5de2x wrote

Yeah, fish tape is flexible, yet stiff enough that it should be able to make it through multiple bends. Additionally - at least in the US - code requires there be no more than 360 degrees of bend in conduit between boxes. For exactly the purpose of being able to pull wire through it. It gets to be exceptionally difficult to pull wire past anything more than 360.

Anything more than that, and the original installer hated everyone else anyway. I’ve seen examples of what you saw in that video. Works awesome inside a wall with no insulation in the cavity. Works much less well when there’s insulation involved. And the amount of friction that’s inside of a conduit would almost certainly overwhelm the holding power of the magnet. Also, if it’s steel conduit (EMT, IMC, or rigid,) the conduit itself would also get magnetized.

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showMEthatBholePLZ t1_iy5cbzc wrote

I used fish tape to run a wire across an office building with ceiling tiles, and I ran it over the ceiling tiles.

Well there all kinds of suspension stuff, other wires, ducts and shit up the wire zigged and zagged through because it’s hard to aim those suckers, I probably used 30-40% more wire than needed but it was a fun job nonetheless.

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knightlife t1_iy5c91h wrote

These are really good points; I guess I was just assuming OP already knew it was an empty conduit for Ethernet/speaker/etc wire, instead of something that might terminate at the label. Smart to check beforehand!

Also, I’m just a DIYer so I’m not aware of all the specific tools, I have used fish tape in the past and have a set of fish rods I use for installing new outlets at my home, but if the conduit behind the wall twists and turns many times, would fish tape still be indicated? Would it be able to, say, fish a wire through multiple right angles? I’ve never done it, I’m just curious. I suggested the magnets because I saw a video online of someone hooking up a cheap magnet to (unpowered) romex and then using a powerful magnet on the outside of the wall to magnetically ā€œdragā€ the cable inside the wall downward. I figured you could perhaps do roughly the same with turns if needing to move laterally.

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