If mine didn’t before (believe they did), they’ve surely learned it from my 2 almost teenagers by now.

Okay, I don't think a picture is going to help too much, as the product was finally assembled, and the damage isn't visible now. A friend came over and put the desk together, but there are no screw holes for the last piece. I'm guessing we need a tiny not very powerful drill to create starter holes.

I have created a design for my new office, though I am uncertain about the desk overhang in my design where my chair is. The screenshot below is how I designed it in SketchUp. The overhang is 2.3m.

Some of the problems are:

1. The wall to the right is not a load-bearing wall. The wall with the window is concrete and so are parts of the wall behind the cabinets to the right.
2. This is a flat and there is no cargo lift. The panels will have to be cut into pieces (my guess ~2-2.5m max height).

My question thus is whether this idea is feasible? If so:

1. Where to ideally cut the wood and how to affix the pieces?
2. How to best support the overhang while trying to avoid a pillar in the middle.
3. How to make the cuts in the wood as invisible as possible? When using real wood or veneer.

Any other tips are also greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Also, where do people get cover panels? Like I have added some to the bottom of those cabinets (which will be Ikea) but the only one I can find are for kitchen units.

https://imgur.com/XpU1pOf

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I know you’re joking, but I honestly think these walls have sass 😂

That's great news, because in our cadillac I so don't want to go digging through the A pillars and dashboard lol. In my Jeep it's simple and there's a gazillion videos of people doing it.

perhaps this? https://bayarearetrofit.com/cripple-wall-floor-connectors/

https://imgur.com/a/d4CtIwv

they are 9/16th heads, i backed off one, and are surprisingly long, frame is steel though, so a bit confused on that. everything is covered underneath with vap. barrier/insulation between frame rails. *forgot to mention threads are wood threads

If you can’t add texture on top of paint, don’t tell my walls. We did and they’re fine. I don’t want the walls knowing you’re not supposed to and getting uppity several years after the fact. /s (but serious)

im going to reframe the single 2x3 stud to either side with a carry plate. not super worried about that.

Don’t forget to toss your respirator filters after you complete the work.

Those look like bolts holding the posts to the frame. Those posts are load bearing. Don't mess with them!

I believe that the VW ID.Buzz already has this.

Hazarding a guess it looks like it might be bolted to the frame. If you can get underneath, do you see the other end of those bolts? I'm curious if it might be structural in a way.

Great points. Exactly the kind of insight I was looking for. Thank you.

yeah... you're going to have to plan on refinishing the floors at the same time.

Yep. When I installed my Valentine1 many years ago I used the passenger airbag light as the source wire. Was right there next to the mirror and it only had power when the key was in the ignition.

And they're there. 2018 Equinox here (Premier.) Get off my butt and hack it w/storage and dump. Get the two side cameras too.

You're basically right. If the fuse is 7.5a, then the wires can handle at least that.

Typically automative wiring is a bit oversized, because you can't spec an exact wire size for a circuit's draw. You have to buy the size that supports it, and that may be a bit bigger. For instance, to run 15' of wire to support your 7.5a draw, you'd use 12ga wire. But that wire can handle 10 amps, so you have plenty of reserve.

And the fuses are also a bit oversized, because nobody wants a car that'll constantly pop fuses. The device on that circuit might draw 5 amps or less normally.

Dashcams draw very little power. Google says 0.5a at 5v is typical.

The result is that you have a healthy safety margin built in, and you're not risking much by plugging a dashcam into the circuit.

Empirically, I've done it on 4 or 5 cars at this point, and have never had an issue.

Good hack! Need to dash cam a 2018 Equinox, hoping when I get off my butt there's a photo montage like yours!

I refuse to buy a car that requires subscriptions for local features that don't require cloud connectivity. You want to charge for on star, or unlocking from my phone, fine. But to use the built in heated seats or some other subscription? Nope.

Usually the mirror area has constant power for things like emergency buttons and map lights. And there's usually switched power up there as well, although sometimes it can behave oddly. For instance, my V60 has switched power that comes on when you unlock or open a door, and stays on until the car is off and locked, or off and unlocked for several minutes. That was perfect for my use, because it meant that I could start the camera just by unlocking the car. If a scenario ever came up where I wanted to record events in front of the car, I could just tap the unlock button.

I agree. It would be ideal to have something that just plugs in on-line with the mirror wiring using factory matching plugs, but it's not my product. It's probably a cost saving method since this works reasonably well and securely.

As far as 7.5 amp wiring, unsure on that but. Probably sized to the maximum imagined current draw for a dashcam or radar detector.

Front and rear dash cams should be standard options these days.