Ah, got it. Good info. Now, based on how this is wired, it would appear that BOTH elements are going to be on or off at the same time, though, right? Any thoughts on why, potentially, one would stay on and one would cycle?

There's not, there's only locking washers. Basically a metal ring with with slots cut out radially and pressed on that are set towards the outside, that hold in place 2 plastic sleeves that act as a bearing. Those are also pressed in pretty hard and I had to hammer the outer one it to get it to seat properly.

This is all covered by a plastic cap that is easy to pry out and appears to have little mechanical strength.

I think I might be better off just passing the cables through with a brush plate ... all these modules will be super expensive and I don't know if the displayport signal would get messed up by converting to mini

I appreciate the help though!

yes

Or at the very least run a circuit up there and a micro/mini usb port.

I’d test it for asbestos. It makes such a huge difference if it’s in there or not! If it is, then you may want to ..sigh…leave it alone. Such a tragedy! Here’s an article.. https://www.thespruce.com/can-i-remove-asbestos-mastic-from-under-tile-1821091

That transformer's gonna be pretty big too.

You need a 3rd wire to provide power for the 'parking mode'.

That sounds like a plan. Thanks!

Kind of, although I was hoping having the light not separate from the switch. Kind of like the first link below, but that illuminates when off. Second link is what I'm looking for but is significantly more expensive thanks to industrial.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-120-Volt-Toggle-LED-Illuminated-Single-Pole-Switch-Residential-Grade-Grounding-Clear-R00-L1461-00C/315716006

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Single-Pole-Pilot-Light-Toggle-Switch-Clear-1201-PLC/301447036

Lots of potentially good answers already, so I will try to keep my (initial) post short: before you can do anything to address the problem you must determine whether you have a leak from outside or have a condensation problem inside. ... I am assuming you have considered and discounted a plumbing leak.

If it's a leak from rainwater the problem will likely be year-round. If it's condensation it will likely be worse in winter .... unless you have air-conditioning which can, under some circumstances, cause condensation issues in the summer.

So solutions- if it's a leak, any plan must start with stopping the water entering the structure from the outside. All the interior wall treatments and dehumidification will be for nothing if the moisture is still entering the wall cavity, as it will just cause mold and rot.

If it's condensation, then running your AC will help, or a dehumidifier if the problem is only in one room. Also move furniture away from exterior walls to allow air to circulate. A fan (rather than a dehumidifier) might solve the problem if it's minor. In the winter an auxiliary heat source, such as an oil-filled radiator placed near the damp spot should also solve condensation dampness. .... When I was a child, I used to have a book case at the foot end of my bed, up against an exterior wall. We found mold had formed on the wall behind the bookcase, due to coldness and poor air circulation. Swapping the bookcase with a small radiator that already heated my room, entirely solved the problem. ... It also helped keep my feet warm! 😀

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It's going to be a bimetallic strip. Two pieces of different metal sandwiched together, with different coefficients of thermal expansion. As the temperature changes, the two metals push and pull on each other, allowing the piece to move. Make this piece into a coil (the coil seen in the bottom-left corner), and it will curl and uncurl itself as temperature changes. We harness this movement to connect or disconnect circuits. You can find some great info on it from Technology Connections on youtube.

Chances are, the bimetallic strip has either broken or gotten stuck somehow.

You can drill out damaged holes to a large size, and then glue a dowel in that corresponds to the hole you drilled. Then saw/cut the dowel flush, and voila, you have new fresh wood to drill into.

Whoever assembled the mower didn’t hit the caps hard enough. They take some force to get on but they will hold pretty damn well once they’re properly secured

Photos do not follow the same sizing convention as paper. 4x6 photos do not line up with any A-X number. If you search for 4x6 album sleeves, you should find results. You can try searching for A4 4x6 album sleeves not to refer to the photos themselves, but the overall size of the album and sleeve.

/r/HelpMeFind

Will this work?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-1-25W-125V-Combination-Switch-with-Neon-Pilot-Light-White-R52-05226-0WS/202035018

Looking for a company that sells fibre washers.

Specifically the size "12.5 x 23.5 x 1.0 mm" (Inner, outer, thickness).

Location is europe but willing to buy from anywhere as long as pricing is reasonable.

By overhang I assume you're referring to the span where the chair is. This is a perfect spot for a cleat along the wall. With the cabinet holding the desk at the left, another cabinet holding the other end at the right, and a cleat supporting the entire back end along the wall, you'll have more than enough support for this span.

That said, do absolutely everything in your power to avoid having the panel seam fall right where you sit. That's the worst possible spot for it. You should be able to get an 8' panel section up your stairwell, even if it takes a bit of exercise to do it.

I used a heat gun and a drywall knife. Took forever and gave up half way. Can you please let me know the result of the asbestos test? I had black mastic just like that on the original wood floor.

More number more better.

In all seriousness, though, I have not yet found a limit on the amount of torque I need, but my needs may vary from your needs.

That said, I'm a bit perplexed by your question. You ask if there's a better option than Ryobi, and that you already have 12V milwaukee and 18V makita.... you know those are both miles better than Ryobi in terms of build quality, right? Stick with your 18V Makita platform, and pick up a nice drill or drill/driver combo, and it will outlast your ryobi by years.

The more you spend, the more you will absolutely get when it comes to drills and impact drivers.

It doesn't look load bearing but it's hard to tell without seeing the full framing of the joists. If you're worried it is you can still add your shelves, just frame it with a 2x6 header to transfer the weight to the side studs like you would a door opening.

I've never had need to use one, but I believe that standard Display Ports are too big for standard Keystones, so people use a Display Port to Mini-Display Port connector. I think this is the correct type:

https://tripplite.eaton.com/mini-displayport-to-displayport-all-in-one-keystone-panel-mount-adapter-cable-female-female-angled-connector-1-ft~p169001kpabk

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