You would have only needed to disconnect the 12v battery and route the wire behind the airbags to be extra cautious.

Oh and styrofoam is a great insulator.

Why not use spray foam?

As mentioned, doesn’t support parking mode. But I used something similar by tapping into my rear view power and it was such a breeze. Definitely recommend.

Agree except NO heat gun... use steam and a putty knife. A heat gun used on mastic and/or unknown "varnish" can (and will) cause toxic fumes...

Source: I have refinished a third of the wood floors in my 122 yr old house, most of which have/had at least 3 layers of linoleum and 1 or 2 layers of carpet and foam padding... ended up hospitalized for acute respiratory distress due to chemical pneumonia from using a heat gun to soften the mastic... Took 5 months to recover fully.

OP has three wires (Batt, ACC, GND). If you only have two wires and your dash cam starts with your vehicle, then that means you're connected to an Accessory or Ignition wire and aren't able to use parking mode.

I think it’s because my tenants have been my tenants for years and I’ve developed the trust of their help and that they won’t do anything they can’t do.

Dude you mopped your house with diesel fuel? Using it outside to remove tar from a vehicle is an entirely different circumstance. Holy shit.

can you provide a link to a fibre washer so I know exactly what you are looking for (i.e the material)

A cordless drill is not going to last long mixing mortar. It's a matter of horsepower and temperature more than torque. Torque measures how much leverage the drill can apply to a screw. Mixing is a continuous high load over a fairly long time and will burn out the winding or brushes. Although most cordless drills are brushless nowadays. If you're going to do a lot of mixing, go to harbor freight and buy a cheap 1/2" corded drill. Because even a 3/8" corded is insufficient for heavy mixing jobs.

I'd drill a hole in the axle and add a cotter pin rather than thread it.

Looks like regular drywall with a roller texture surface. Be aware, if your garage is attached to the house you likely need to use 5/8 and or fire resistant drywall on the shared wall. So this may be older style fire resistant drywall.

Any examples including pricing? I'm trying to stay around 5-15 USD/100pcs ish in price range.

It's already a thing. You are correct.

Toyota 100% offers them on a handful of models. Reasonably priced too. https://www.toyota.com/owners/dashcam

Edit: On second thought, it should be enough to add threads as long as the axle is thick enough per spec, I'd just suggest doing a manual pull check once it's done to make sure you're not going to be three-wheeling it home.

This is excellent, thank you!

If they're using speed nuts to hold wheels on, I'm loathe to assume they're using the correct axle materials.

Hi, so I wanted to run an ethernet cable through some vacuum pipes, but the pipe has a lot of curves, and isn't a straight shot pipe (has an intersection). Was wondering if anyone knows of any methods or tools to let me run the ethernet cable through the pipe (going from 2 floor to basement.)

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Can anyone tell me what type of drywall / board this is? https://imgur.com/a/cQ4ecLu

I am wanting to fully refinish my garage as I can tell it's been partly done by different owners over the years. The wall in question could have been up since the 80s, it's hard to know. There are clearly two different types of walls in my garage. One is standard drywall, and the other is this one. It seems much harder and has a texture. The top textured layer is considerably thick, either a heavy paint or compound of some type. I was able to pull some of the texture off to reveal the cardboard backing. Behind the cardboard backing is some drywall type material.

I'm pretty new when it comes to DIY, but I think drywalling in the garage is a fairly safe project.

Thanks!

Well I only have a single battery each for the Milwaukee and Makita. The Milwaukee impact has been great but the Makita was bought as a weed wacker/leaf blower kit. Leaf blower broke after dropping it from ~2 ft and the weed wacker is pretty poorly designed so I'm not particularly enamored with Makita.

I've had pretty good luck with Ryobi but I wouldn't mind upgrading a few of the tools (namely the multi tool and circular saw, along with the needed drill).

Ignoring my current battery, Makita would be your pick then?

If you can't find a supplier, somebody with a laser cutter could whip these up for you pretty quick.

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>You could also look into how the axles are held on, and if you can replace them with a threaded rod, though this is much less likely possible unless you have decent welding or riveting skill.

Hmmmn, I'll look into how the axles are attached, given how cheap everything else is it's probably just held in place with bolts. Though vis the thread's breaking - shouldn't that not be an issue? Weight bearing axles are usually steel and the one on this mower appears chromed. Plus, while I'm not the gentlest, if it gets stuck I know it's easier to stop and check what's happened than to to just brute force it.

If I'm understanding correctly, those are called speed nuts, and shouldn't be used for anything taking forces as high as an exterior wheel would have. It does depends on if the wheel has anything else holding it on, though.