Recent comments in /f/DIY

imoutohere t1_iy9muxr wrote

Reply to Plan to frame part of basement and have a few questions by Ad-Nauseam91

You are going to many different opinions. I’ll start, I use 2x4s for the wall with at least a 1” gap between the back of the stud and the masonry. That way you will have air flow and the insulation won’t rest against the concrete. I would paint the floor if it’s a shop.

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TonyFugginMontana OP t1_iy9lz1k wrote

Reply to comment by [deleted] in Garbage Disposal wired directly into Dishwasher - fixing wiring and adding outlets by TonyFugginMontana

Thanks for responding. I agree with your reasoning on plugs vs hardwired, the only reason I started leaning toward putting in outlets and going with plugs is because that's what Home Depot installers expected and one of the (several) reasons they refused to do the install.

I think it is still not to code to put all those wires into the dishwasher box because it is too small, but someone else commented that if you just did that same junction in an actual junction box it would be fine. I think that might be the way I go since it'll be much cheaper than putting in outlets and plugs.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iy9kldp wrote

Reply to comment by mr78rpm in Garbage Disposal wired directly into Dishwasher - fixing wiring and adding outlets by TonyFugginMontana

You say that all the parts here should be rated for 15A, but then go on to say the drawing intends to show outlets with 20A sockets. First, not my drawings. Second, why? 15A receptacles are rated for a 20A pass through and OP's drawing doesn't even have a pass through to another potential 20A outlet. By limiting the sockets to 15A, no 20A appliance can be run through a 15A switch, which would be the only potential concern here.

Why do you feel that the wiring should be rated at 15A vs. 20A? There's nothing wrong with wiring using 12 gauge for a 15A or 20A circuit. OP has a 20A circuit, which is wise when both a dishwasher and disposer share a circuit.

Anyone who wants to be confused by (if less than 14 gauge) shouldn't be doing their own wiring. Why would I list the volume requirements for 12 gauge, then go on to say less than 14 gauge isn't counted? People were confused by 1/4lb burgers vs. 1/3lb burgers as well, thinking that 1/4lb was bigger. These aren't the people who should be doing electrical work or ordering my food, even as a DIY.

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spyrosj t1_iy9k6zw wrote

Reply to comment by Masterandslave1003 in Garbage Disposal wired directly into Dishwasher - fixing wiring and adding outlets by TonyFugginMontana

Not an electrician but I think the reason the neutral is there so that the connected smart switch can complete the circuit and get power. An inline switch just breaks the electrical connection. And like /u/WittyMonikerGoesHere, the neutral carries the same load as the hot since its necessary to complete the circuit.

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LongEngineering7 t1_iy9k3pi wrote

Reply to comment by dominus_aranearum in Garbage Disposal wired directly into Dishwasher - fixing wiring and adding outlets by TonyFugginMontana

Well, also AFCI if you really want to bring it up to code, which is an ass-pain tbh. You can get GFCI/AFCI combination outlets. Those outlets only last for about ten years though before needing to be replaced, which not many people know about.

Wiring AFCI into a breaker is an extra pain that I would never attempt.

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iRamHer t1_iy9jv4m wrote

Reply to comment by dominus_aranearum in Garbage Disposal wired directly into Dishwasher - fixing wiring and adding outlets by TonyFugginMontana

all switches do NOT require a neutral, not in any code I'm familiar with. your definition of properly is half baked and people reading should factor this when considering your comments.

while smart switches/ thermostats will require what acts as a neutral, switches in general do not. and depending on wiring, is completely unnecessary as to use the neutral you'd be doing major rewiring anyways. next you'll say we have to run a traveler or 2 to every box requiring 3 or 4 conductors when 2 suffice just in case, ignoring the need for breakers. some things do NOT need the ability for a smart switch due to safety, and thus neutral.

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