You won’t prevent moisture coming through the foundation so don’t trap it with plastic or the like. I would do a gap and use unfaced insulation for the exterior walls

Isn’t an exception to this when the switch box and wiring is accessible? So unless op is moving switch to wall it’s unnecessary?

Thanks! It wasn't so bad. I kinda had an idea what I was doing this time as I did it on my last car. This one took about an hour or so. My last car my coworker and I spent 2-2.5 hours trying to figure it out because we didn't even have a clue where to start.

Thanks for the extensive response… I’m probably being too anxious about moisture, just rather play it safe I suppose.

Sounds like either option I’m probably good with which is a positive.

Lastly, I already have a 1.5hp dust collector that I’m transitioning to 2 stage, so it does a pretty good job at dust collection. And has a 1 micron filter. I still plan to get one of those ceiling hanging air filters too though, can never be too cautious on air quality!

you missed the point and you're wrong. light switches complete a circuit when on, they find a neutral [or return] when on, when off they interupt that return, whether that's a correct or incorrect wiring method can vary.

an always on device requires a neutral OR alternative power. this means smart switches, smart thermostats, automated function devices.

if this were a multi phase wiring install that COULD differ.

please don't input incorrect or half right information. yes lights get the neutral passed to them, but convention has changed if you intend to automate. you're fully right if this were 1990 again.

Can you cite this? The only reference I've found is to 404.2(C), which clearly specifies that it applies to switches with lighting loads. A garbage disposal is certainly not a "lighting load".

Further, there is specific exception in 404.2(C) for "receptacle" loads, which is what OP is trying to set up.

Switches do not require a neutral. Only light switch boxes require one to be available.

Keyword light. Not switch.

Edit: NEC 404.2C is what you're trying to quote... Other people alsoprovided the exact code in the comments here.

Question a. Are big temp swings happening dynamically in 1 week or statically over weeks or months? Temp swings primarily mean drastic changes in humidity, while expansion and contraction happens it's primary going to come into play when in the same week or over a span of weeks you have huge swings of humidity, for example Houston in the fall/spring where between 1 week you have humidtiy of 70%, 20%, 30%, 90%, and 10%. If they happen slowly across seasons you may not need to factor in as you are.

1.Concrete can carry moisture and you don't want this moisture to go into your wood studs especially during humid seasons or wet/rainy/monsoon seasons. You can circumvent this by getting treated 2x4s, 1x4 or whatever size wood you decide to frame with. Otherwise you can do literally any of the options you described, pink boards, vapor barrier, or offset from wall so only bottom piece needs to be treated wood. You could also put the 2x4 on a vapor barrier on the ground and then you wouldnt need any treated wood.

2. It sounds like you are saying (i'm deciding randomly) that your north, east and south walls are outer facing and your western wall isn't and so you want to only frame these three. No risks to doing this. Insulation is used (framing and drywall included) are done to prevent sound, temp, and motion transfer. in your situation you would be insulating from sound and temp since these aren't load bearing walls. You would do this wear you want to prevent sound and temp from transferring for any reason.

3. No reason to vapor the floor except as mentioned above. If you have lived in the house for a while and are pretty sure there aren't water issues in the basement then no real reason to do beyond what you already did, which is a moisture test. That being said your primary concern having a woodshop should be airflow out of your woodshop unless you don't like breathing clean air. You should plan this and install this before you put your walls up and you might want to add a section of framing to accomodate hanging this. Look up Air Filtration systems on Rockler or any other major woodworking website and spec one out based on the cubic footage of your workshop. After this air filtration system you might need to add an outdoor whole similar to a dryer vent or such that will introduce a water failure point. I say do this early to insure all sealing is done completely correct and you can observe this. A dryer vent isn't anything new or crazy but a new hole in the wall is something you want to make sure is done right.

When a job goes from a grandfathered in allowed minor change to a major change requiring updating to the latest code is not well defined. In general I would expect that since it was already like that you are only making a minor change. However you would need input from a local inspector (or possibly a lawyer) to say for sure

On a normal switch, there is no neutral terminal. The three connections are for line in, line out, and ground. Neutrals are bridged in a standard wiring situation.

Appliance guy again.

Most indeed ship from the factory set up for direct wire, but as modern building codes increasingly require outlets, more and more are being made with plugs.

It will be a long time before a full changeover, and may not happen at all because there are still tens of millions of homes with hardwired units, so it's easier for the manufacturers to keep making them hardwired and sell plugs as an accessory.

Not to operate, no. Some are saying codes require it now. A "dumb" switch only interrupts the circuit. You could wire the neutrals to the switch instead of the hots, and it would work exactly the same. Shouldn't because changing a light bulb would then carry the possibility of electrocution, but could.

Oh, hadn’t considered that. If I can make it a tight-enough fit for the pin, there wouldn’t even be any play in the rod. Thanks for the idea. :)

There are dumb switches with built in lights (expensive, but I recommend them) that really should have a neutral.

The control wheels themselves are just held on by hub nuts (backed against the mount pin). So long as the rods joined by the coupling nut won’t unthread, I’ll be happy. Much thanks! :)

This is no longer allowed by code, but it used to be that instead of a neutral people would use the neutral as the switched hot side and no neutral would go to the switch at all. This saves some money, and copper is not cheap.

Hot and neutral go from the breaker to the outlet, the neutral wire is connected to the neutral size of the outlet. Hot is connected to a second wire that goes to the switch, then the neutral from that second line is connected to the other side of the switch and then to the hot side of the outlet. When doing this you were supposed to paint the white wire black (or red) so everyone knew it wasn't neutral, but often this wasn't done.

This is not connecting hot and neutral together. It is taking a wire that is normally used for neutral and using it for hot in a situation where the neutral wire wouldn't be used anyway.

>converting the appliances to plugs is that Home Depot's installers expected that.

I've never seen a dishwasher or garbage disposal that came with physical plugs, they are all direct wire.

Through drill with a cotter pin so you can take it apart if needed.

Red Loctite (requires heat to remove) would likely hold it just fine On it’s own. Even blue loctite probably would.

Red loctite and jam nuts together on either side of the coupler would be very unlikely to come loose.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut

Blue Loctite would probably be fine, red Loctite definitely. As long as you don't plan on taking it apart without significant effort.

Thanks for starting it off! Do you do a vapor type wrap on the back side of the studs to help hold in the insulation?

In regards to painting floor, what’s the purpose? Looks? Or also ceiling moisture?

Oh I know. My House was built in 1900 according to records, but I suspect earlier.

I don't know the code, but I would put in a junction box to split the line to your switch and the dishwasher. I would keep the dishwasher hardwired in (I've never seen one plugged into an outlet). I would keep the garbage disposal hardwired to the switch. If you need/want to put in an outlet, I would put a single plug outlet for the disposal.

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True, but older homes often don't have ground wires either. Ours built in the late 50's didn't have grounds.