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>I've seen tutorials showing that way, but then I've also seen some say that the new NEC updates for 2018(?) made it a requirement to use 12-3 and include a capped neutral... for whatever reason.

This is inaccurate. The NEC requirement is 404.2(C), and applies only to switches controlling lights. Even if it did apply to more than lights, you are not obligated to upgrade your switch wiring to the new code.

And even if it applied to non-lighting and you were obligated to update it, there are seven listed exceptions, and three of them would probably apply: #2, you have access to the wiring without removing finishing materials; #4, the switch serves only a specific appliance rather than the entire room; #7, receptacle loads. (If the switch controls a receptacle rather than a light, it does not require a neutral.)

The purpose of the NEC requirement is that "smart switches" need a neutral return to provide power for their circuitry.

The way they had it set up is not ideal from a maintenance and repair perspective (you have to pull the dishwasher to repair the disposal), but is perfectly fine from a wiring perspective.

>but it doesn't need rectifying.

It does. I don't recall ever hooking up a dishwasher that had a j-box with enough volume for the extra wires.

Use High Density Foam attached to the concrete walls and tape the seams. This is your vapor barrier. Now stud a wall up as normal with sill gasket on the bottom of the wall to prevent the wood from touching the concrete. You can insulate the 2x4 walls as well but do not add another vapor barrier (plastic).

The floor is fine as is.

Or, ya know, don't try to fix what ain't broken. Seeing as there is no safety concern and really no benefit to adding a receptacle, just replace the dishwasher and leave everything else as is. No inspector needed for that.

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What I was getting at is that op is completely overcomplicating this job by adding anything to it at all. (S)he began with a concern about the wiring being contained within the dishwasher and wanting to rectify that, but it doesn't need rectifying. Just change the dishwasher and move on is what I'm saying. Cheaper, quicker, and no code issues that be dealt with.

20 years indeed - the hot water knob in the shower wouldn't budge, so you could either taking a hot shower or a scalding hot shower. Had to turn on the sink during the summer.

And I kid you not - after taking the fixtures off in the shower, the hot water that previously fed the toilet turned cold and the sink was no longer scalding right after turning it on. It's been two days and already an adventure.

I was hoping to avoid taking it down to the studs but that honestly might be less work anyway.

I would just leave it the way it was. Everything was more or less hardwired no?

Neither way is up to code. Garbage disposal and dishwasher should be on their on designated 15 amp ccts. If you only have one cct, just put it back the way it was. Don’t add receptacles.

Is there a place to go to for definitive local code? I’m in CO. Any clarification on that is appreciated!

Dust collector collects visible dust. Always protect your lungs by constantly filtering the air. Air Filtration cannot be understated especially in stagnant environments like a basement. This becomes even more important if your furnace/register is in the basement.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=nuke+it+from+orbit+only+way+to+be+sure#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:9de58e27,vid:aCbfMkh940Q

My advice is to check local code. Where I live a permit is required to finish a basement.

That is up on black back on white rule…. And there is no neutral involved. You’re making the white wire hot……………..hence phasing it black.

Switching a neutral will never work…. In you single phase home…. It just won’t really work.

On a three phase system, well breaking or switching a neutral will create a dangerously unbalanced load. Possibly resulting in blowing up your lights and electronics.

Don’t ever switch a neutral. You can use the white wire as hot in one specific scenario. But it is NOT a neutral.

Believe it or not, if you were to break a neutral or switch it…… bad things will happen.

At my ex’s place, the downstairs and upstairs light are wired together and periodically, the breaker flips and neither work. Electricians are necessary because wiring is not DIY

Cars in the heat outside will generally reach 60c inside the cabin. A lithium ion battery hidden behind the dash may stay at those temps even after you've turned on the AC due to the restricted airflow.

In negative temperatures there are also anomalies and most cars need a few minutes to heat up.

Set screws on the coupling nut.

Just found the code for anyone interested.

404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads.

The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following:

(1) Where conductors enter the box enclosing the switch through a raceway, provided that the raceway is large enough for all contained conductors, including a grounded conductor

(2) Where the box enclosing the switch is accessible for the installation of an additional or replacement cable without removing finish materials

(3) Where snap switches with integral enclosures comply with 300.15(E)

(4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom

(5) Where multiple switch locations control the same lighting

load such that the entire floor area of the room or space is visible from the single or combined switch locations

(6) Where lighting in the area is controlled by automatic means

(7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load.

Never switch a neutral.

However, with the newer electronic switches (dimmers, timers, remote switches…) a neutral will be required.

The hardwire kit has a voltage cutoff. It turns the camera off when the car battery reaches 12V. It's good for several hours of parking mode coverage.

I'm wrong. Not a lighting load anyhow.

404.2(C)(7)

You are correct. I was overly broad.