Whatever works but most likely silicone

TL;DR

Yes to silicon, or adhesive or both

Yes

Does red loctite still come in a blue bottle?

Hey all, so I recently put up a pair of wall brackets to hold two shelves up. Drilled holes in the wall, used the anchors that came with screws. Of the 8 only 1 wasn't tightening properly, it got tight but was still spinning.

Am I at risk of it all collapsing down? I've had just the bracket with the wood shelves up for a couple of days and haven't seen any migration from the bracket.

Edit: Just to add it's my first time putting up shelves. I guess if you imagine a vertical bar with 4 screws from top to bottom, then the 2nd from the bottom was the screw still spinning

Any work in a bathroom should be undertaken with the understanding (and willingness) that you might have to gut it.

Ways to imitate sunlight in super dark studio apartment? I've layered my lighting already, but I want a setup that gets brighter as the day progresses. my lamps are just on/off

The only thing I can think of is IOT (hella expensive) or hacking it out using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi..

Have them replaced, as a printer myself, what you describe is unacceptable.

Another option is superglue. If you ever want to remove it, a little heat from a propane torch is all that's needed to make the superglue release its bond.

Mastic is garbage!!!!

Most jet pumps will run fine at 60 psi when in good shape. Be sure you are incorporating the lift from the surface of the lake to the top of your house into your math. Also the pressure switch should be plumbed right at the pump. A larger tank allows more flow before the pump comes in, and will lower the number of cycles your pump needs to run but has no effect on the pumps ability to do the work. If you need more lift and higher pressure a submersible pump right in the lake is a great upgrade and does not require priming if you ever run the pump dry.

Contact the company and ask for a new set. You paid for a product and should get it.

Fast and dirty, meaning that I wouldn’t do it for a client or try to get paid for it - get a sheet of 3/4 cdx - cut out pieces that match the stairs - screw it together and drop it on top. Secure w expansion bolts. It’ll last a couple of years. Wouldn't try with more than 3 steps.

Also, make sure it's freeze thaw stable. Many are for indoor use only.

As the other poster said, use a roll pin. I would use blue loctite anyway, tighten your thread, then drill for a small roll pin. Will last forever, but could be taken apart with a punch and a bit of grunt if you had to.

What have you got to lose by trying it out one one?

You should have a neutral where one is needed. Switch legs don't need one, nor do many multiphase circuits.

Codewriters are now requiring people to install additional conductors 'just in case' which, while good practice shouldn't be law.

Air flow? From where to where?

Lock washers.

If the vacuum pipes are more or less solid then probably the easiest way would be to get a plastic grocery sack or small wad of cloth. Tie some twine or fishing line to it. Shove it in one end (should be loose but take up most of the cross-section, you do not want it packed in) and go to the other end with a shop vac and suck it through.

Then you can tie the cable to the twine and pull it through. No reason not to keep a length of twine in the pipe for future runs.

You could vapour wrap it, or just run string that's stapled, or use 3mm ply, stainless steel cable, garbage bags, there's tons of options. Wrap will be the easiest though.

In my Chicago area suburb, the code guys are generally pretty helpful.

I think you deserve a refund

The problem is that waste piping must be installed so that the flow is directed. You have a san tee laying on its side with the outlet dropping out the bottom. With a significant flow the water from the sink on the left will by-pass the outlet and flow directly into the disposer (or vice versa). It's a code violation not to mention a clog waiting to happen.

The dishwasher airgap discharging into its own trap is suspect for the simple reason that traps should only be installed on fixtures that will receive regular discharge. It is assumed that a fixture with a faucet will receive water from the faucet on a regular basis but that is not true of a dishwasher. For example, my mother has never used her dishwasher in the 5 years she's been in her apartment - her trap would have lost its seal and sewer gas would be entering via the dishwasher. You may use your dishwasher everyday and never have a problem but in many jurisdictions this is a code violation.

Both issues are relatively easy to fix.