If the walls are dry (and no efflorescence), r 7.5 foam board right to the concrete, and mineral wool between your studs.

But can drywall mud be placed on top of thinset?

I am seeing conflicting suggestions about using drywall compound on top of thinset. Is it really acceptable?

don't do shit

There's only one way to do it you set a routine on the app.

How do your turnit on then? by saying hey alexa or hey Google? It's much easier just to hit the switch.

Also, the freaking light has a default setting for white light. I set it this as the default, but then it still gives yellow light sometimes when turned on. The yellow ugly light it loves. I checked the app, and my default is the same, so why do this cuz it sucks but seriously have not found Philips useful at all and so pricey. And no function.

What are the steps made of?

This is the way I’ve always done it. I don’t like anything attached directly to basement walls. This way has several advantages. First of all by using 2x4 studs ( wood or metal) you have an easy way to run electrical wiring. You can use relatively inexpensive regular insulation. You can position the wall to cover pipes, ducts, or anything else ( install access panels for clean outs etc. ) No chance if mold forming.

no that's the other brand loctit had blue in the red bottle.

check library.municode.com for your municipality.

Can you put an offset toilet flange, maybe that can get you close enough to the toilet clearance, it’s hard to tell without knowing the bath dimensions/layout. I am surprised it doesn’t leak with the pan offset from the wall.

I have bitched, moaned and complained while chipping/prying my way through 20-30 year old silicone on more than one occasion.

CO will vary between different city/counties. Start at the website for your city or county and you should be able to find permit requirements and building codes.

Some of the blue loctite versions are cyanoacrylate glues. Superglue (the brand) also makes threadlocker.

This is correct method. Foamboard directly on the concrete leaves no room for convection. In winter the top of the basement wall will be cold and the bottom buried part will be warmer. You do not want warm air moving and coming into contact with the cold and condensing the water out. In an unfinished basement this isn't a problem because enough heat is being lost through the wall that the dew point is somewhere in the wall, but once you insulate inside, the inside of the concrete will become colder.

u/strongmans suggestion to frame a proper 2x4 wall, not just use furring strips, is also a good one, because then you have a proper wall to hang stuff on in your shop and you have room for electrical boxes on the exterior walls.

Blue locktite with a tightend nut is pretty tough, I think I would hold just fine. Has held on my heavy duty bike for like a year now, with similar twisting a ton from a trailer. It is wheels on a table, I thing you are good with countered nuts to be honest, they get super tight and don't separate.

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This is how we do it around here, lot of hacks don't but this is the best way. Believe you need at least 2 inches of foam to count as a vapour barrier, or exceed what would put the dew point in your wall, at least thats what inspectors want around here. Just speak to your local building agency and see what they require before you do anything.

Silicone. Pretty standard way for most bathroom sinks

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One more thought if you are worried about moisture - don’t finish with regular sheetrock, use greenboard (water resistant)

One more thought if you are worried about moisture - don’t finish with regular sheetrock, use greenboard (water resistant)

Thanks, yes I wanted it to be removable so I was worried about adhesive but was also skeptical silicone would have enough “stick”

I will go with silicone

Might not be enough thread for a full sized jam nut a half nut should do it. Stick a bit of loctite on there to be safe and it should be scookum as frig.

Could be wrong, but pretty sure the person above means that the problem is rain/moisture too soon after it is applied. Not rain/moisture in general. The product needs to remain dry until it’s fully cured, otherwise the excess moisture will cause it to stay malleable/messy.

Something that will stick, but can be removed without damage. Silicone is your best bet. Stay away from adhesives.