GFCI outlets generally expire after 10 years. They can also fail. I'd replace it first.

Outlets are cheap. Replacing it is Step One.

I have the 590x. I'll have to compare the two. Maybe I need to send it back because it's terrible

Best of luck. I'm afraid I have the same adventure in the bathroom coming my way as well. Check the incoming pressure from the city line. Our local water runs a 2in line into a single family house. Pressure regulators are something the local plumbers mention after a few calls.

For the record it's a 1906 house so it's probably original plaster for all I know.

As you can see, safety is always a consideration. I always found that important for my clients. I am a retired GC 50 year continuous operations, but in Southern Cal. Good luck

I could probably vent it out through the small windows in my basement, that’s how my dryer vent is setup today already.

How is DC vented outside? Like how I plan to set mine up, hoses to tools, that go through cyclone then into the filter canister with bag attached to that. Does the venting happen after the canister filter? Sorry newb question but having trouble picturing it.

You're not wrong.

I mean, app-based remote start is sold SaS. I guess I might buy a similar service at a similar cost and timeline as remote start for app-based remote image retrieval.

I think if I'm buying the fucking dash camera hardware as part of an option/package, then basic access to my dashcam video ought to be free and not SaS. I guess I tolerate the remote start cost because it offsets some of the cost of the cellular modem in the car, and it was dirt cheap for a long time.

I'm glad I'm old enough to not see this economy in 25 years -- the capitalists will have everyone on a weekly rental plan and working at jobs that just pay the weekly rent.

1. leave the gap you already know why

2. dust well you already know about it so you answered your own question

3. Concrete makes tons of dust. I wish I sealed my concrete first.

Appreciate the response, just some woodworking is all, table saw, sanding, planing, etc. electrical will be big, and dust collection.

Trying not to overthink it but I want to do it once right! Floor I’m curious on, I’m going back and forth on that one.

How often will you be using this shop? What will you be doing in the shop? Any kind of continuous partial flame, etc. I like to keep things simple. Iam in CA. So keep that in mind. 1 2x6 walls, 1 “ away from masonry 6” insulation in the framed wall. If any kind of flame use , use 5/8” type x Sheetrock in the ceiling. I might freeze standing on a concrete floor, so consider a plywood floor on treated sleepers which would be glued onto the floor, no anchors. Plenty of receptacles don’t forget 220 v in case of the type of equipment. Keep it simple it will work out. Good luck and enjoy your hobbies

There is a related topic. One guy said he used diesel which made a mess but was the fastest. Wall paper steamers are also mentioned.

https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/z71y4o/removing_mastic_while_preserving_hardwood_floors/

Thank you and u/strongmans follow up question around the different temps in foundation higher up than lower. If I were to frame, insulate and drywall the walls, but leave the floor as is, that doesn’t create any weird effect? What if I leave the ceiling as is too (not sure I’d do that but curious if that changes anything)

Yes, I was hoping to avoid it but I suspected a few leaks and was prepared for the worst. I was originally going to use a contractor, but he's booked for the foreseeable future, and my shower started leaking. So I'm attempting myself - baby steps!

Must not be McHenry county lol.

>WOW. Thanks. So you put on the diesel on the mastic. The how to you remove the goo?
>
>Years ago I removed black tile adhesive gunk from concrete using solvent. I was going to go to a bar after ward. I drove onto the interstate off ramp. I was higher than a kite. The cop let me off with a warning. I went home instead.

Put a couple of roll pins through the coupling to lock it. You can always punch them out if you ever need to take it apart

Just did mine:

Check your local code so you don’t get screwed and you have resale value. Added egress window since one room was bedroom 2” XPS glued to walls 1” XPS on slab with double layer overlapping 7/16 CDX plywood. XPS will act as thermal and vapor barrier Concrete screws on first layer of floor ply and wood for second. Floor allowed 2x4 construction without wood on concrete. Use a laser square since basement walls are not square. Snap an offset chaulk line and find your min gap. That’s your 2x4 wall offset Closed off mechanical room since AC and boiler make a lot of noise 48” opening to mechanical room with barn sliders for access Rockwool insulation Fire block the wall top plate I added a heat loop off boiler but in the end I didn’t need it. Room stays 72 in winter

Do it right for the long run

There were a few minor leaks where the caulking had failed, but otherwise it was pretty solid! The offset flange is an interesting idea - if I end up taking it down to the studs, there should be enough space, but I appreciate the suggestion!

any epoxy will do. Be sure there is lots of thread engagement. If you have to undo it a torch heating it to 250F or higher will degrade the epoxy.

I live in MN and here they give us 2 choices: 1) frame the wall 1" from the concrete. Put a vapor barrier on the concrete side and slice a small " smile" in the vapor barrier on the concrete side. Insulate the framing and then put a real vapor barrier on the room side and drywall it. The " smile" allows any vapor that infiltrates the insulation to evaporate. The concrete side barrier allows a gap between the framing and the concrete so that any moisture evaporates from there. 2) frame the wall 0.5 to 1" in front the concrete and spray foam it at least 2" thick. Both vapor barrier and insulation. I got this info from the inspector when I finished my basement. I did the first way. Spray foam is nice but too expensive

I agree. I am looking into this and already planning for it. In the process I bought an angle finder as well. Thanks for the idea!

It absolutely should be law.

It's not the 1980's anymore, and there's no reason to be designing or building houses without the necessary electrical system to utilize modern consumer technology.

There's nothing additional to install, you just can't cut corners with cheaper 2-wire cables anymore.

Just did mine:

2” XPS glued to walls 1” XPS on slab with double layer 7/16 CDX plywood. Concrete screws on first layer and wood for second 48” opening to mechanical room with barn sliders

Check out a product called InSoFast, I used it in my basement remodel and liked it a lot. It is insulation and framing combined, goes together like Legos.

It also has a corrugated back face that still allows the concrete to breathe.