End the uncoupling membrane even with the drywall. If you are expecting the floor to be regularly very wet, you can roll waterproof membrane up the drywall a bit and stop short enough for the base molding to cover it, or use tile base molding over the membrane to make it actually waterproof.

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Command strips or painters tape on the drywall side + glue.

Command hooks or command strips by 3M. Top-notch quality. They never fail, and as long as you follow the instructions they come right off without any damage or marks on the wall at all

Yes, but I would use slightly wetter mud for the first coat as thinset soaks in the moisture.

I've had decent luck with the command strips by 3m. I think they make a roll of it.

You can try a heat gun, they work well on certain types of paint.

Command Strips usually don’t tear paint off the wall. Really depends on how heavy whatever it is that you’re trying to attach.

The 590 is lower resolution but it definitely shouldn't be out of focus at all. Is it new? If so it might be worth exchanging it as it could be defective. Dumb question but you did pull off the protective plastic from the lens right?

There's nothing additional to install, you just have to install an additional conductor...

...whether you want 'smart' switches or not.

I'm reminded of when I built my house and installed old fashioned shower and sink valves in my bathrooms. The inspector initially refused to sign off because I didn't have modern fixtures.

No, this isn't something that needs to be mandated.

Epoxy floor would look nice. I said I would do it on my floor 10 years ago, but it hasn't happened yet. You can do treated wood for the bottom plate in each wall, the other option, u/strongmans mentioned it, is sill gasket, basically 3.5 inch wide closed-cell foam, about 1/8" thick that comes in a roll that you put between the bottom plate and the floor. It's also used between the top of the foundation and the sill plate (or anywhere wood touches concrete) in most newer houses.

If you're building just a few walls yourself, spend the extra money and use 2.5 or 3 inch deck screws instead of nails (Robertson #2 head if you can get them in New England?) Very useful when you mess up and need to redo stuff, and you can hold the board with one hand, the drill in the other while the drill bit holds the screw in place.

I just completed the same job at my son's house. Don't go to the trouble of grinding out the mortar around the window frame. My guess is that it will chip away from the block quite easily once the window and jambs are removed. Chip away all of the old mortar surrounding the old windows and start fresh. Install your new windows level and plumb, then spray foam around them. Once the foam has set, repoint the space around the new windows with mortar, if you wish. I only did the outside, making sure to slope the mortar away for good water runoff.

Circa 1850 is an excellent product but on the toughest doors that clients demand restoration, I take them to a dipping facility.

The doors go into a tank and the technicians pull them up every day or so to see the progress. A local Google search in your area may provide results. If not, call some contractors in your area that do restoration work. Any seasoned professional will have a dip strip contact in their Rolodex.

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I'm thinking they really do mean everything -- as in whole walls, rooms, or the whole house. That could get pricey depending on one's budget.

Not a pro, but I don't see an issue as long as you aren't grinding into the block.

I think that matching the texture will be the most challenging part of this...

One sheet of drywall probably won't cost much more than a big bucket of plaster/joint compound. The plaster is obviously pulling away from the lathe. I would just put up a sheet now.

You can leave the floor as is, especially for a workshop, and leave the ceiling unfinished too. My basement is 70% fully finished (drywall ceiling, carpet) but I've left the laundry/utility room and a storage room with no ceiling and a concrete floor.

Sorry, couldn’t remember how to add a photo in my original post. Hopefully my link is visible now.

Only if they are nylon tipped set screws. Otherwise the threads on the original shaft and all-thread will get totally jacked up.

This is what I was thinking was the easiest solution, but wasn't sure how it would look.

Add that link to your post text.

Good to know, thank you! And best of luck to you, too!

https://imgur.com/a/7dlksuY