I'm in GA, no, not in our climate zone it is not required.
If you have housewrap under your siding, you already have a Class III vapor retarder installed in the optimum location - outside of the exterior wall.

The correct term is vapor retarder, a vapor barrier is specifically a Class I vapor retarder which blocks nearly all water vapor. You should ignore all posts which mention 'vapor barrier' instead of 'vapor retarder'. There are only a couple of posts which correctly use the term 'retarder'

In AL you can use rockwool, unfaced fiberglass, or kraft faced fiberglass with kraft paper facing exterior.

Adding a vapor retarder is not a fix for leaking/torn/improperly installed homewrap.

There’s a saying in construction. There are two types of concrete, concrete that is cracked, and concrete that is going to crack. This is nothing

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This is the correct answer. I wish I could upvote it to the top for reference. Thanks for the link - very helpful. Dr Lstiburek knows his stuff.

I have lots of lights that are soaking wet for the month of December and they don’t ever trip my gfci. It’s weird honestly. In my experience gfci just go bad and it’s easier to replace them after some basic troubleshooting.

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They mentioned Alabama. Our summers are HOT. Our winters are mild but do sometimes get down low for a week or two at a time. Especially in the northern Alabama which is a little cooler and more prone to snow than central (where I am). So I guess it would be fair to say it’ll be hot or warm most often, but potential to totally flip

You can only try to mitigate cracking using schluter ditra. I've had to warranty cracked tiles laid over schluter ditra on numerous occasions. We no longer install any tiles over a concrete substrate even with ditra.

Move the poster a bit lower. Problem solved.

My basement walls are poured concrete and were wrapped with insulation with a vapor barrier. It came in a roll and was fastened to the wall with Ramset shot anchors. I used steel studs off set from the wall these were attached to the floor and ceiling joists. Only lost about eight inches in the room. Remember to level everything from the ceiling down as the floor might sloop.

Lol, I sure didn't make any mistake. I asked what code you were referring to since you seemed to be stating that the new dishwasher requires all wiring it connects to to be brought up to code. If I thought you were referring to j-box size, I'd have told you you were wrong to begin with.

Also, the "trouble" of opening mine up was three screws. What kind of lazy electrician are you, anyway? I told you you're making shit up, because you are. You're all over this post citing nec and so far you've been wrong more than you've been right.

Edit: I also just saw your other comment about the space required being 13.25in^3. that's not correct either, because you are assuming the clamp is inside the box, which it usually is not, especially on a small box. With a very common size being around 2"x2"x3", I'd wager that just about any dishwasher j-box is big enough or very close to it.

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I've never gotten a straight answer on this question. Steel studs can rust, wood studs can rot. Pressure treated can rust your nails or screws if you're not careful. When I redid my basement, I found 40 year wood that was good as new, but I live in a high elevation cold/dry climate.

Unless the switch has a neutral so they don't have to leak power down what they pretend is an off circuit.

That's your dishwasher. Personally, I've never seen one that size, but it obviously exists.

What's really a shame is that you told me I was making shit up, basically calling me a liar. When I'm wrong, I admit it. Already did with the neutral at the switch. I own up to my mistakes because I learn from them. Rather than admit you made a mistake when I point out the NEC code for j-box fill requirements that you asked for, you instead go through the trouble of opening up yours to prove what? That yours is big enough. In the dozens I've installed/removed over my remodel career, I've never seen one that big. The code requirement is still there and is something to pay attention to.

I hate mastic so much. It loves water ! Scrape it out and use concrete or bondo

Don't forget the asbestos, either.

And in a pinch, nail polish. Never would have thought I needed that info, but some day you might. Came in handy for me once

That looks pretty normal. It's only a problem if they are growing.

You can prevent that by properly leveling the floor and then using an isolating or "decoupling" underlayment like Ditra over the concrete. Any major movements are likely done happening for a 30 year old slab. Minor movements can still happen and Ditra helps protect the tiles by providing some level of elasticity underneath the tile. Where I think you can about guarantee cracks is over a relatively fresh slab that's not done settling, especially if you don't use the protective underlayment.

this video is exactly what this guy said. Do this.

https://youtu.be/hKxya3jNhYg

UM should go tight within reason to the drywall 1/4”-1:8” gap. You would never run UM vertically. What your seeing vertically is a fleece lined waterproofing membrane. The 2 most common products for this are made by Schluter Ditra (UM) and kerdi (waterproof membrane) in a basement there is absolutely no need to use the fabric membrane on the wall, it’s mostly used in showers and bathroom floors. Be sure to honor the control joints cut into your concrete slab. Otherwise they will in time translate to the tile above and crack them. TCNA section EJ 171

Here's the j-box on my dishwasher. 6in wide, 1-1/4in deep, 2-1/8in tall puts it just under 16in^3. Even taking a very conservative 1in^3 inch out for the connector in there, it's still plenty big enough for another 12/2 wire.

OP: I used to live in a house with plaster just like this. First step: pull out all the loose plaster. If it ain’t attached, it won’t stay attached. Second: use a product called USG structo-lite base coat plaster and apply it to the bare lath, all the way up to the old plaster. It’s lightweight and spreads like peanut butter but dries hard as concrete without shrinking and cracking. Be sure to apply it just slightly shallow to the height of the original plaster, because once it dries it’s hard to lower. Third: Skim the top of the structo-lite with drywall mud and sand it smooth. Bingo!

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