Definitely a good thing to keep in mind. I'm quite confident the original bathroom floor has asbestos.

Learned so much from that dude!

I don't know what that filler is - but - you can use almost any kind of paint. Understand that it won't be exactly like the rest of the wall.

First, clean it up and get rid of the more obvious lumps.

Then use a good primer - Kilz is one of them but there are others.

After that is good and dry, apply your top coat. To help it blend in somewhat with the existing paint, use your brush to lightly feather it into the old paint. The paint that you use should be the same as the old paint - that is, whether it's oil-based or latex and whether it's flat or semi-gloss.

Good luck!

It's just natural movement. Added to by any walking around up there

How about Krusty the clown. It's load bearing poster.

Bigger poster

Pro here, lots of questionable advice on this thread. I have a lot of experience with old plaster. This could be repaired with a piece of drywall but that’s not the best way to do it. It’ll look different, especially over time. To do a proper plaster repair I would first coat all edges of the existing plaster with plaster bonding agent. This seals and stabilizes what’s there and keeps the old plaster from wicking the moisture out of the new plaster - which would make a weak bond = which will cause a crack over time. This is an important step even if you were to go the drywall route. I’d also coat the lath with bonding agent. This will help the plaster stick instead of just relying on the keys that are formed when the wet plaster squeezes through the spaces in the lath.

When that has dried the product you need for the first coat of plaster is called Structo-lite. It’s a plaster product that is made with perlite, that keeps the weight down and gives it some texture that helps the next coat to bond to it. The Structo-lite gets troweled over the lath pushing pretty hard to try to form new keys as it squeezes through. Sometimes a nice straight board will help to get a flat surface - use it as a screed to get a consistent thickness. This is just the first coat so it doesn’t have to be perfect. When this dries it’s rough texture is perfect to bond the next layer. Durabond joint compound mixed from powder is the thing to use but be careful - it cannot be sanded so don’t leave high spots. The final coat will be a sandable layer - either Easysand mixed from powder or regular premixed joint compound. This layer can be sanded when dry to get a perfectly flat wall.

The Structo-lite when applied with the plaster bonding agent will expand and contract with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity the same as the old plaster and will not crack at the joint with the old plaster like many of the other techniques here will.

I’ve been restoring old houses for 35 years and the old timers who taught me this stuff are long gone.

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/walls/drywall/plasters/structo-lite-basecoat-plaster.html

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/walls/drywall/plasters/plaster-bonder.html

Thanks! This is very helpful. Also where does the tile end then? Like where the uncoupling membrane ends?

I’m not familiar with control joints, the concrete is also pretty old. Could you provide more guidance?

Yes

The paint is peeling either because it wasn’t applied right (no primer) or there’s a leak. Make sure the leak is fixed before you even put any paint or drywall mud down. Once you figure that out , scrape the paint off add some drywall mud (a couple coats) sand it down should be good.

You could swags the coupler - use a large pair of bolt cutters and crimp the fitting onto the threaded rod

Yup no keys; needs more investigation

You'll be fine. It's when you close in the walls preventing air movement is why you need a vapor barrier. I've done this method tons of times and never an issue. If it's going to be a shop why bother finishing the floor. Unless you want to spend the money and epoxy it for looks.

You can use PT for the sill plate if you want but it's going way overboard. The sill gaskets breaks the capillary movement of moisture. You shouldn't use PT lumber inside but it's not the end of the world.

Then no need to insulate.

They're basically just the cement walls that make the foundation. The washer is down in the basement, so yes, the area is heated.

Well, maybe they aren't quite 1/8" away. I'm not there ATM to measure, but we've already noticed them getting close to freezing this year. Last time, we were able to keep the water running during the night, but we caught it in time.

One way or another, they're getting pretty cold, and so far outside temps haven't dropped below the teens. Once things get into single digits, I have a feeling that there might be some trouble if we don't do something.

100% what you said with the addition of five minute mud 25 minute mud and 90 minute mud

The only goal with each of the types of mud is to not create anything to Sand

Final coat with wet mud with some water added

I totally understand this guys only gonna buy one bag of mud

And he could probably just fill the entire hole with five minute mud like the way they did the plaster

That you get an idea too. After I take them down after Christmas, that sounds like what I'll need to do

If this is the result of you trying to peel a small piece off then you should absolutely start a demolition company. Just walk into a building and sneeze. Super easy money.

It only happens when the lights are plugged in. It's the lights...

Mine is a fiberglass three-piece shower surround and the crack is basically in the middle of the back panel. It’s SO thin but there’s a clear separation where water could get in, so I just want to keep it out. I have touch-up paint specifically for the tub, but I don’t think that would fill the crack. I was thinking either silicone, or maybe even a thin layer of epoxy followed by the touch-up paint.

You get a gypsum based adhesive for putting the drywall directly on surfaces. Call dot and dab attaching. Just cut out a square of drywall, throw a handfull of adhesive on the wall and stick in the square.

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For a pro tip, cut the patch a few inches oversize, and cut off the plaster on the excess leaving the paper attached. put a layer of jointing compound under where the paper overlaps the old drywall and it'll be much easier to feather out and blend later

Drywalleriest carpenter on the internet.

Instead of redoing all the grout in my bathroom, I just put silicone over it until I am ready to take it all out and make it prettier. 100% solved the problem going on over 6 months now and it's looking foine*, I check for any places it stops making contact over week or two to be safe in case I need to scrap away what I can and reapply because nothing lasts forever. Edit:typo