Unfortunately that is exactly what happens when painting inside a surface exposed to the elements.

I forgot I had a pack of Devcon epoxy bathtub repair, so I’m gonna try my luck with that. I already sanded a little bit past the track, so I should just need to spread the epoxy, lay the fiberglass cloth over that, and then spread more epoxy over that.

EDIT: I just finished and it looks awful. I'll maybe try tidying it up around the edges with some smooth grit sandpaper when it's dry, but we're probably moving within the next five years or so, so worst case scenario, I knocked a couple grand off the asking price of my house, haha.

Yes the sun is hot.

Cut it square and put a piece of drywall to replace it. Do not waste time trying to replaster.

Need to make a 3d model of a desk and for some engines with motors, what program is the best?

Serious question, what about the Midwest where it gets hot for a few months and cold for a few months, and mild for the others. What does the vapor barrier go?

I’m more concerned with the unprotected cable coming out of the floor. I don’t know where you are, but that can’t be up to code. Im not an electrician, but I would get one to look at that, and shut off the breaker in the meantime.

>You can insulate the 2x4 walls as well

This was required for where I am when using less than 4 inches of foam due to the required R-value, which imo is dumb as hell. But if you're getting it inspected, worth checking the insulation codes as many places now require a separate insulation inspection.

I had a small cluster of hairline cracks and ended up using a piece of clear contact film/liner that was advertised for kitchen surfaces to put over it. Someday I'll replace the surround...but this has held up just fine since I put it on 4 months ago. Yes it's a rectangle patch that's obvious to the eye, but it's clean looking and not an eyesore imo, no air bubbles behind it. I can share more info and a pic if interested!

I wouldn’t use silicone as it isn’t too durable when exposed to scrubbing, rubbing, etc.

I would use something like OSI Quad in white and just cover the crack plus 1/2” all around and keep it like the thickness of a quarter.

Definitly going to check with my building dept before starting, talking with some folks in town it sounds like they won’t care since it won’t be 100% finished but I want to check anyways.

I live in New England, CT to be exact, maybe I forgot to put that in the original post.

Weird Al's parents died of carbon monoxide poisoning from a chimney. I would get a reputable professional, this things are no joke.

I would do this, except I'd rip plywood to 3" wide, to attach to studs. Wood shims tend to split. Composite would be better. Otherwise a good solution.

If you're taping onto existing painted walls I would use a premix taping compound or all-purpose compound. Powders don't stick well to paint.

It works well. I turn old doors into desks, and they typically have many layers of paint.

Hit it with a heat gun, make it bubble/burn, then let it cool completely. When you run a paint scraper over it, it'll flake right off. Much less messy than dealing with molten paint.

Cornice adhesive will do it.

Definitely send it back. Might just be unlucky and got one that is defective.

Kilz is king

I had similar situation and ended up using CertainTeed Membrain.

I plastered my entire kitchen. A lot of it looked like this. I used the following products:

Base coat - structo light base coat plaster Top coat - east sand 90

Notes on technique: spray the wood lath with water before applying base coat.

I mostly use mud squeegees instead of drywall knives. Much more forgiving. Also your final texture is very forgiving for the occasional mudder You can do this!

I've used about every product under the sun and what I've described here works best for me.

Other options include using sheet rock and trying to level up the the rest of the wall or removing the wood lath and replacing with metal diamond mesh.

Oh also you have wall paper there. In case you didn't notice.

That's a great comment

Looks more like sheetrock than plaster to me.

I used 12-inch wide 6-mil poly under my basement walls and wrapped it up both sides and stapled it in place. Provides separation from the floor and some minor flood protection. I can get up to 6 inches of water on the floor and still have some protection for the studs.

I also have rolled dimple flooring underlay to provide separation and airflow under the vinyl plank flooring.

I've built this kind of furniture before; in the box it comes in you are supplied with the correct hex key to put it together. I always duct tape the key to an unobtrusive part of the furniture in case of need for disassembly.

You probably want a small gap between the tile and drywall, like 1/8”.