Smaller gap than your baseboards. Just think of trim as covering the gaps, so you can make a bit less accurate cuts, and move faster.

My biggest issue was that I kept making my cuts so tight I had to either fit them in place or recut. Instead, just give yourself another 1/8th of an inch and move on.

Right on, brother! (Or sister.....)

Hopefully my internet wiring and bulb have no problems 🤣

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Your looking at the solution, do the same as how the handle was fixed to the shaft. Drill a hole in each end of the coupling nut and shaft, while in place on the shaft, and stick a roll pin through it. It's reversible and cheap and easy.

Any of the other suggestions (except for welding) will loosen up at some point.

Your GFCI outlet is tripping because the C and F are mixed up.

How about one of Rita Hayworth, if you want to be a real funny guy but also give a nod to a masterpiece.

They are to control cracking in the slab as it cures-you may not have any in your basement. If the slab is in good shape just apply your membrane over the whole surface.

Don't wanna be a wiseass, but you need a lightbulb moment, my friend.

Glue, just glue it back up

Fire-rated drywall with fire taping

brother that is not a hole

You need to drill a pilot hole. Some material probably shouldn't have screws in them. What was the goal here?

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=allan+key

Pre-drill holes. That’s pretty much a requirement. You’ll need a drill to do that.

Someone at the small-town hardware store can help you pick out the right screws for your surface materials. Take a picture of your proposed mounting point(s) and bring a bracket that you will be attaching.

Ask the same place how to repair that crack. In the best case, it looks ugly. And you don’t want that. In the worst case, it will fail from the stress. You don’t want that either.

OP: i accidentally ripped off half my wall

Is the original ceiling old chalk-based paint? If so, you need special paint to go over that.

That was a great article, but am I missing something? He gave various examples of proper vapor retarded and layers, but left out the SINGLE MOST common building type in the US. Stick framed houses with OSB sheeting. All. Of his examples were concrete, brick and concrete, brick and block etc.

Why are you finishing the walls for what will be a shop. Maybe you just want a project But I can't see why you wouldn't just leave it unfinished

• fix humidity problem
• remove loose paint
• spackle the paintless area
• sand it all flush
• prime
• paint

Not an electrician but have been doing up my old house....

1. Lights here in the UK are usually on a "loop in system". So there is power flowing through the loop even if the specific light fixture is off. The plastic part with the connections is known as a ceiling rose

https://www.practicaldiy.com/electrics/lighting-wiring/light-wiring-loop.php

Behind the plastic should be three cables. One coming from the prior light fixture, one Going to the next, and one to the switch.

There needs to be a circuit at all times even if your light is off... Otherwise the switch would turn off all the lights down the line.

The middle three should be all the lives. The flex N should be the two neutrals from the loop and the neutral from the light fitting. The remaining two should be the switched live (black with red tape) and the live going to the fitting.

At a glance it looks like it's wired correctly. Id assume it's probably the light fitting or ceiling rose at fault. You can get a new one for less than a fiver.

Posted by /u/jewishforthejokes upthread will probably answer your question.

https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers

Yes

What a great article.

It looks like your half-assed contractors should have used white stucco as a filler instead of whatever that is. If you do use kilz to turn it white be sure to buy exterior grade kilz, not the red label can.