Don’t knock the price of the house give a repair allowance at closing.

Assuming you are able to remove it from where it is, a product like Naval Jelly brushed onto the rusty surfaces would neutralize the rust. Evaporust also works well. Sand and prime the treated areas , then paint.

That is not the paint cracking; it is the wall that is cracking. As others have stated, it is not usual.

I'd just use a r-38 faced fiberglass insulation, assuming you have 2x12 floor joists and not I-joists or floor trusses. then use a 6mil polyethylene for the vapor barrier.

Sound troubleshooting here. Divide and conquer.

100% silicon caulk.

I have this in one of my vents where something is lifting and lowering inside, causing the tapping. Only happens when the furnace is on.

remove the surface rust and use Rustoleum Hammered finish paint. i have had excellent results with this paint. pricey,but holds up well.

Should mention we're in a small 1 bed flat on a budget, so power tools (aside from hand drill) are a bit unfeasible. One day I'll have the shed with all the big boys but that day is not today unfortunately

You can often find that info on the county website.

Not grind off the rust and sand a little first?

I know this is posted under DIY, but we've had a fiberglass repairman fix some cracks for us and they're perfect. Can't even tell a repair was made in that spot. It's a fairly quick fix, so I doubt it'd be excessively expensive.

The cost to demolish a driveway is usually somewhere between $2 and $6 per square foot. So you could reasonably expect to save somewhere between $2400 and $14400 off the contractors bill. Possibly more if your location is particularly annoying or if the contract you end up going with has a "I really hate demo work" cost built into their quote.

There's a lot of factors that go into it, hence the hugely widely variable cost.

Really the only way to be sure is to get a quote with and without demo.

Don’t play with electricity, Hire a professional.

Uses to do polished concrete and decorative coatings. We had a saying:

Ice cream melts, and concrete cracks.

You should hit it with POR15 it will stop/slow the corrosion from spreading and either leave it black or pain over the POR15

a section that small is also possible to just fill in with new gypsum in one or two coats and level it off to be quite flat with the existing wall. i guess drywalling is a more useful skill to develop in general however, depending on region and materials availability

Sometimes builders cheap out on GFCIs, even when exterior. I found interior grade GFCIs on a million-dollar 7000 sf neo-plantation house. GFCIs also can wear out due to time, and corrosion, but there are some other good suggestions in the thread

flex tape as a temp solution.

I too love me a good jam nut but in an environment with high vibrations and possibly temperature changes there's no beating a jamnut with locktite. Still can be undone without having to permanently change anything on the device, just need one more step (heat) to get it apart when you need to.

Did you get a permit for the job? If so, I've found asking the county inspector about things like that was my most valuable resource.

I've rehabbed a lot of properties with plaster walls. What I would do here is cut this so it's somewhat of an even rectangle with a stud at each end. Remove the lath strips. Cut a sheet of drywall thick enough to come close to the finished wall without sticking out and hang it up. Depending on the wall/thickness, you may be able to keep the lath strips in there or use them to bump out the drywall to meet the wall.

Tape up the joints with fiberglass tape. There's a plaster/joint compound called "one pass wall repair" that does really well with plaster. Use very small batches as it sets up fast. Use that to blend/skimcoat the new drywall. You can get away with drywall mud, but the one pass blends better. Let it set, wait a day, sand it out, repeat until it looks good, paint.

Okay air space? A gap? Void? Chose one. The point is you don’t want fiberglass insulation touching the concrete.

You will definitely want to contact a structural engineer to evaluate this. I have to warn you though; this is very serious so be prepared to do a whole slab replacement of the house.

(I’m joking it’s fine)

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