How do you know the switch is fine?

WITH THE POWER OFF: At the light, check continuity between the switch wires (test between the block of reds, and the black next to the brown). You should get continuity with the switch on, and no continuity with the switch off. If you don't get any continuity, then short the wires at the switch (can put them both in the same switch terminal) and retry. If you start getting continuity, replace the switch. If still nothing, you have a broken wire between the rose and the switch.

If you have a broken wire between rose and switch, there's probably a screw through it somewhere - check for pictures mounted above the switch. Replacing cables is a right pain - if you have attic access follow the wire up there and check for damage. If you're super lucky the fault is in the attic and you can replace a section (with an attic-accessible junction box) without damaging walls.

Have no idea. My wife switched it on and it turned on but flickered for a bit and switched off. No changes have been made and this is the only one that doesn’t work. I already have a good idea what is the cable with the issue. After I confirm it’s the problematic one and find what has happened with it, most probably I will find out why it happened.

Yup, tearing your house apart should never be step one. Other than the bulb there are not a whole lot of things here that can randomly break. Someone changed something, that change is the prime suspect and not everything else that always worked fine.

>does that matter other than aesthetically?

In this case the wood surrounding the window is just trim for aesthetics (and also super prone to splitting because it's just thin wood), so the split is not going to harm anything, just looks ugly.

But yeah as others have mentioned, drill a pilot hole. Choose a drill bit the same diameter as the screw's shank (the threadless part in the middle), but smaller than the threads.

Not even a little

https://i.imgur.com/2CLmDrn_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

The top of the opening in this picture clearly shows floor joists running perpendicular to this beam

Okay sure but my point still stands this sub is diy not call a professional. More effort needs to be placed on that and how to work safely rather than just say pawn off the job.

I strongly recommend using a setting type plaster/joint compound when filling large areas. It will cure in the time indicated (5-90 minutes) no matter how thick its applied, heat management is the biggest concern

You can't tell from the picture. Is a double 2x4 a structural post in some situations? Sure. Is it in this situation? No way of telling from the information presented.

Consult a structural engineer!

Thanks to @Acceptable-Fox-4341 I now know how it works. Not so complicated as you see what is going on. All other lights on this level are working properly. My issue seems to be with the cable that comes from the switch to this rose.

Command strips

Final result is softer

it must air dry, so thicker coats will take forever to dry, vs the powder that "cures" via chemical reaction with water

As the others noted, it shrinks more, which creates problems when filling in big/deep areas

I'd just put a hole on each end of the nut and lock it in place with set screws

Exactly this. I want to know everything that happened between the lights working correctly and now.

The only times I have seen straight cracks like these is when there is wall movement or when drywall tape fails due to moisture. This is an exterior wall so you may have moisture seeping in through your siding or from around that window.

It could be that the framing around that window is slack and the wind load is allowing the wall to flex. What is curious is that the cracks are only beneath the window and only vertical. If there was flex, a structural failing, I would presume to see diagonal cracks from the corners of the window.

You can have someone test for moisture content in the wall. I would call someone who does basement waterproofing. They would have the tool.

Everything else works except of this one. And as I mentioned I don’t have anything on the Flex L side, so the issue is in the cable that comes from the switch to the lamp - the black one with red sleeve.

> So the lightbulb in the master bedroom stopped working.

Any idea what caused it to stop working? If nothing changed theres no real reason for it to break.

Huh, that looks even more complicated than an American thermostat. Good luck, I'm very competent at our two wire system but that many cables for a basic light would drive me nuts. Too many points of failure.

I would still try to make sure all the wires are still actually in the contacts (might be loose or broken in one). If your systems run through multiple sockets and lamps, I'd make sure other ones are still functioning too. For example, I once had a full wall go down and found the problem was the head of a wire snapped off inside a wall outlet so the connection was cut to all other objects on the breaker.

Those are structural. I can see the floor joists tied into the header above that post. Looseness means nothing - just means the floor has sagged more than the second story floor, which is common.

I'm by no means an expert and this is just an observational comment but from the pictures it appears that that is just a couple of 2x4's scabbed to the side of the beam to create that little window thing. If that's the case I don't see what if any structural support it provides. But you should really consult someone who knows what they're doing

That sounds like some good advice, cheers will look into those products

Por is never overkill when it comes to rust.

You can.snag a small can for like 30 bucks

The ceiling is the one area that is actually insulated! So they did do the most important area, but walls and floor are not insulated at all.

Moisture problem...if you don't fix the cause of the problem it's gonna get worse and you'll get more cracks.